I’m going to start this hiking journal featuring the southern Malvern Hills by saying I went on a hike, but the views didn’t get the memo…
This was the one day during my Christmas and New Year break from work that I had an opportunity to go on a hike, and so I decided to give up waiting for the weather to play ball, and go and embrace the fog.
My chosen route was one someone else had curated for a change, a (nearly) 9-mile loop in the south of the Malvern Hills, starting at British Camp. It promised me a reservoir, a cave, an obelisk, a trig pillar, a quarry, an iron age hill fort, and lots of beautiful woodland.
It was a lovely route, a bit muddy in places, with a few get ups and go downs. And while the big views my map suggested were there were non-existent on this occasion, I got eeriness and moodiness in spades. It was a very pretty walk, even though I couldn’t see far.
I found the route on OS Maps (start here if you don’t already have a subscription). There’s also an accompanying blog post with some useful information to go with the map. With that, and as always, I’m not going to give lots of route notes in this blog post. Rather, I want to tell you a bit about my experience hiking in this area in freezing fog.
The Malvern Hills AONB
The Malvern Hills are a range of hills located in Worcestershire, Herefordshire, and a small part of northern Gloucestershire in England. They’re renowned for their striking landscapes and natural beauty, and are designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB).
Importantly, the hills are composed of some of the oldest rocks in England, formed over 600 million years ago. They primarily consist of granite and metamorphic rock, providing a rugged and dramatic landscape. The hills have a rich history with evidence of human activity dating back to the Bronze Age. There are ancient earthworks, boundary markers, and remnants of Victorian-era water wells. And the springs of the Malvern Hills have been famous for their pure water for centuries. The water was highly regarded during the Victorian era for its supposed health benefits and remains popular today.
The area is super popular for those, like me, who like to get outside. From the highest points, such as the Herefordshire Beacon and Worcestershire Beacon, you can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, stretching as far as the Welsh mountains and the Cotswolds. Alas, not on the day I chose to do this hike…
The Malvern Hills in the Fog
This circular walk starts at British Camp car park (WR13 6DW – here on Google Maps), a good-sized pay and display car park in the middle of the Malvern Hills AONB. There’s a fixed price (currently £5.50) to park, which can be used in any other Malvern Hills Trust car parks throughout the day. There’s a lovely no-frills outdoor café here – Sally’s Place, and free public toilets (walk down Jubilee Drive a short distance and they’re on the left).
I knew what I was letting myself in for before I left home; there was no chance of any views today. But that was confirmed when the first main feature of this hike was meant to be British Camp Reservoir, my path leading me right above it.
The 1891 Malvern Water Act was enacted in response to water shortages and led to the construction of a reservoir on British Camp, which was completed and opened in 1895. The reservoir collects water from local springs in the area. And while I could see it on the map, there was absolutely no sign of it in reality, and I wandered straight on by.
Clutter’s Cave
Following the Three Choirs Way (a long-distance trail to investigate as a potential future hiking adventure – it apparently links the three local Cathedral towns of Worcester, Hereford and Gloucester), I worked my way around British Camp and up onto a ridge, before coming across a feature I could actually see – Clutter’s Cave.
Clutter’s Cave, also known as Giant’s Cave or Hermit’s Cave, is a man-made cavern. It has been created by excavating into pillow lavas; volcanic rocks formed around 600-million years ago when a volcano erupted under the sea.
The cave has a rich history, and has attracted a load of folklore. Tales range from giants and druids to historical figures like Owain Glyndwr. One story claims it was carved by a giant on British Camp, while another suggests it housed a faux hermit placed by wealthy landowners. It’s also believed that Owain Glyndwr used the cave as a hideout from Henry IV’s army. Alfred Watkins theorised that the cave was linked to a sacrificial stone used in ancient rituals. Nearby, Waum’s Well, reputed for its healing properties, adds to the area’s mystical allure. I love a good story!
On any normal day, the cave offers beautiful views over the Herefordshire countryside and the valley of the River Severn. Alas, as you’ve gathered, not today. But in some ways that made the cave even more intriguing. Can you imagine living somewhere like this? Or just spending the night?
Eastnor Obelisk
Next up, still heading in a more-or-less southerly direction on the Three Choirs Way, was a feature I could enjoy in the freezing fog – woodland. The path through Gullet Wood was glorious. Muddy, yes, but absolutely stunning. The old moss-covered trees were particularly picturesque in the damp mist. I wish I could have done the scene justice in my photos.
A short there-and-back section then took me along the Geopark Way, another long-distance walking trail that might require some further investigation (apparently this one goes 109 miles between Bridgnorth and Gloucester exploring the geological changes along the way), up to Eastnor Obelisk.
The obelisk, which did eventually show itself through the fog once I was quite close, was erected in 1812, around the same time as Eastnor Castle was built. It was commissioned by the Somers Cocks family to honour John Somers, Lord Chancellor in 1700, and Philip James Cocks, an intelligence officer who died during the Peninsular War. The 90-feet tall Grade II listed monument is currently fenced off so you can’t get right up to it.
There was obviously no view to be had from the obelisk, a recurring theme for this particular hike, but it was a cool feature in the landscape to visit none-the-less. And it was at this point I decided I was going to have to re-hike this one some time, as I was really missing out!
Chase End Hill
There was another section of beautiful woodland to walk through after crossing the main road (A438). Ragged Stone Common is open access land, but you’d be hard pressed to deviate much from the path as the woodland floor has been left to grow as it pleases – and in fine form. There were also a couple of trees down across the path that provided some additional interest (over one, under the other!). While Gullet Wood had a wide and flat path flanked by ancient trees, this woodland had a more recent and unkempt feel to it.
It was a short steep climb up a well-worn path to ascend Chase End Hill. Here I bagged the only trig pillar on the hike, sitting at just 191m above sea level.
Chase End Hill is the most southerly of all the Malvern Hills, and reaching this point meant I had now traversed the entire length of this particular AONB (in two parts, that is). I can see the full extent of the Malvern Hills from my local hill (Cleeve Hill), and as such it’s been on my hiking list since I moved this way. Of course, I am yet to walk it end to end in one go, but that requires some awkward logistics, so I haven’t managed it yet.
Gullet Quarry
Coming down off Chase End Hill via a much gentler slope, it was time to head north for the second half of this hike. The hike up through the woodland was once again glorious, and then the route picked up the Three Choirs Way once again, on what the notes suggest is an old tramway. A couple of fields later (the only field walking on the whole hike), I passed an interesting thatch cottage, crossed the main road again, and hiked along a minor road for about a mile.
The next feature on this varied route was Gullet Quarry. This was once one of the Malvern Hills’ major quarries, opened to extract granite for road building. It opened in the early 1900s – and it was one of the last to close (around 1977).
Sadly, Gullet Quarry has claimed the lives of several young people who have dived into its cold waters from the rocky ledge above. Access to the quarry has been restricted as a result, and there were a lot of safety signs warning of the dangers of the deep and cold water.
It was time to go uphill again, first to Swinyard Hill, and then back up to Clutter’s Cave. Being later in the day, I didn’t have the cave to myself this time so I didn’t stop for a second visit – I left it for the kids who were having the time of their lives climbing up the rocky walls and seeing if their voices would echo inside.
British Camp
I like that the creator of this route in the southern Malvern Hills has hikers visit British Camp and the Herefordshire Beacon at the end rather than the beginning. There is something very satisfying about climbing up to the top of this not insignificant hill (338m, but no trig pillar to bag) eight miles into a less-than-nine-mile hike.
Despite there being no views whatsoever (no change there, then…), British Camp is an interesting place to visit – it’s steeped in history. It’s an Iron Age hill fort, thought to have been constructed around the second century BC. The fort has multiple layers of ramparts and ditches, with four gateways providing access. The site includes numerous round hut platforms, suggesting a permanent settlement.
Excavations at nearby sites suggest that British Camp may have been abandoned or destroyed around the time of the Roman invasion, but later there was a Norman castle, known as Colwall Castle or The Herefordshire Beacon, built before the Norman Conquest of 1066.
These days, British Camp is a Scheduled Ancient Monument maintained by the Malvern Hills Conservators. And while it’s not the highest point in Herefordshire, it does (on any other day), provide stunning views.
An Excellent Exploration of the Malvern Hills
Once I’d got bored of the lack of any views from the summit, and my fingers and face had given in to the freezing fog, it was a very quick descent down to the car park at the bottom of the hill. Naturally, I celebrated my hike with a double egg bap and a cup of tea at Sally’s Place before escaping the weather and heading home.
This isn’t my first time hiking in the Malvern Hills, and so I know the promised views do exist, even if I didn’t see them myself on this occasion. And as you can gather, I can confidently say that even with the chill and limited visibility, it was an exceptionally beautiful hike. The fog brought its own kind of enchantment, transforming the landscape into a series of eerie, picturesque scenes that were strangely mesmerising.
The route offered a wonderful mix of terrain that kept things interesting without being too challenging – a perfect 9-mile day hike. I thoroughly enjoyed every moment, with Clutter’s Cave and Gullet Wood standing out as highlights.
I will definitely re-hike this one some time, as the Malvern Hills deserve an opportunity to show me more.
Here’s the route again if you fancy hiking the southern Malvern Hills yourself sometime.
