What an outdoors-loving person can do with two days in the Test Valley. This post is thanks to Test Valley Borough Council (Visit Test Valley) and a gifted stay at Michelmersh Manor Farm.
At the start of May, I went on a little outdoors-focused break in the Test Valley. If you’re not familiar, that’s the area in the north-west of Hampshire following the River Test from Romsey (ish) up to Andover (ish).
I knew the area a little already thanks to some family history I have down that way, which is the main reason I responded and took this gifted-stay assignment. I also know the Test Valley offers a different kind of scenery and walking to the type I get at home in the Cotswolds, and it’s always good to switch things up a bit. Add to that talk of a stay in a Shepherd’s Hut, which you know was featured on my most recent bucket list reset list, and I was in.
The Test Valley
The Test Valley is a bit of the country people often drive through to get to the New Forest, Salisbury, or to Southampton… and, quite understandably, Test Valley Borough Council (who made this trip possible) and local tourist businesses are keen that a few more of us stick around for a while.
Spanning 250 square miles, the Test Valley is full of picturesque villages and pretty English countryside. It’s named after the River Test, which is (I’m told) one of England’s best trout rivers. The water of the River Test meanders for 40 miles through meadows and ancient woodland, and supports four main towns – Whitchurch, Andover, Romsey and Stockbridge.
Most famous, perhaps, for its wetlands, the Test Valley has a patchwork of flooded meadows, marshes and reedbeds that provide a home to all kinds of wildlife. The area has a number of nature reserves, including the common marsh at Stockbridge, Fishlakes Meadows and the newly designated Abbotswood Nature Reserve at Romsey, and more.
But the Test Valley isn’t all flat… The rolling chalk hills are at least equally as stunning as the low-lying wetlands. Once at the bottom of the sea, the small hills and ridges contrast the open plains, and as such look a lot higher than the OS Map’s contour lines might suggest they are.
My Short Visit to the Test Valley
In my usual style, I tried to experience as much of the Test Valley in my short visit as possible, spending pretty much all my time outdoors. I had two full days to explore, and managed to see quite a lot, while still leaving time to enjoy the views.
I went to North Baddesley (read weekly blog 152 for that story), Romsey and Stockbridge, visited the popular attractions of St Harold Hillier Gardens and the Hawk Conservancy Trust, hiked some (wet) riverside and woodland paths, and learnt some history at Danebury Hillfort.
As you might imagine, two-days in the Test Valley only allowed me to scratch the surface of this part of Hampshire. There’s so much more to see and do. And while I can only talk about what I experienced, at the end of this trip report I’ll include a few other places you might want to visit when you head to the Test Valley yourself.
I’ll start with my personal highlight, spending the night at Michelmersh Manor Farm.
Glamping at Michelmersh Manor Farm
My accommodation for the night was a cosy Shepherd’s Hut at Michelmersh Manor Farm. A family run farm near Romsey in the heart of the Test Valley, Michelmersh is a working farm (a mix of arable, dairy and sheep), found at the end of a single track no-through road surrounded by fields and livestock.
I had a lovely chat with Fran when I first arrived. She showed me around, and gave me an insight into life on a working farm. Being right in the farmyard, there is no getting away from farm life when you stay here, which is actually a real privilege – although note that means you are in the thick of farm noise, too.
It’s possible to get involved with calf feeding, lambing, and watching the cows being milked by state-of-the-art robotic milking machines while on site. The latter was super interesting. Using technology from car building production lines, Fran’s cows have 24/7 access to fancy automatic milking machines, and come into the barn whenever they feel ready to be milked – they seemed quite happy with the set up. I stood and watched for ages as cows took their turn without human interaction, it was fascinating.
Fran gave me a pint of the farm’s milk to enjoy during my stay, which was a lovely gift. I was glad I packed that hot chocolate and my teabags!
Shepherd’s Hut
Michelmersh Manor Farm offers a variety of self-catering accommodation options, and on 1 May 2024, I was the first guest of the season. I had a look in the barn conversion which contains a number of different sized properties, and it all looked very lovely indeed – comfortable and well-equipped. These would be perfect for families or groups of friends to use as a base for a few days exploring the Test Valley and beyond. But I was here for some glamping, and so got settled into the Shepherd’s Hut.
My shepherd’s hut was right in the middle of everything at the farm. Sat in a grassy field on one side of the farmyard, close to the farmhouse, there were animals all around – sheep, cows, chickens, horses, ducks, rabbits, guinea fowl (what hilarious creatures they are), a goat, and a peacock.
The full set-up actually consisted of two shepherd’s huts. The first had a simple but well-equipped kitchen, shower room with toilet, and a comfortable double bed (with bedding and towels provided). The second hut had a king-sized bed and a dressing table with chair – and so during my solo-stay that one stayed unused.
Outside, Fran has created a grassy garden area with a low electric fence so you can feel amongst the sheep and cattle without actually being sat with the sheep and cattle. I mean, it would be cute to have lambs running around while you cook your dinner, but I’m sure it could also be a bit unwelcome! There was a table and chairs, and a firepit – with wood provided. My car was right by the farmhouse and so within easy reach.
On the Hunt for Wild Garlic
Before I got too comfortable – as it would have been easy for me to don my comfiest attire and curl up on the bed to relax all evening – I headed out for a short hike. Fran has put together a short guidebook offering walks and hikes directly from the farm, and I was keen to try one or two of them out. I asked which she recommended for me that evening, and she gave me a suggestion that hasn’t quite made it into the list yet, telling me I needed to go and see the amazing wild garlic that was close by.
Fran was right, I could smell the garlic before I could see it. The whole five-mile loop was absolutely stunning – I was treated to predominantly easy walking through thick ancient woodland, with pristine bluebells and lush green undergrowth, and a huge display of wild garlic in flower. Other highlights of the loop included a really old church, a majestic brown owl, and a beautiful hare.
I plotted the route in OS Maps so if you stay at Michelmersh Manor Farm yourself sometime, and it’s bluebell or garlic season, then you can retrace my steps. Alternatively, make sure you grab a copy of the farm’s walking guidebook for other suggestions – including walks to a couple of local pubs serving food.
The Peace of the Farm
I chose not to visit one of those local pubs for dinner, but instead settled into my shepherd’s hut for an evening making the most of my surroundings. I made a simple dinner (the kitchen had a fridge, induction cook top, microwave, kettle and toaster), and put my feet up – there is something quite lovely about watching lambs play.
When the sun set and the temperature dropped, I shut the door to the farm, made a hot chocolate using the fresh milk I’d been given, and got warm and comfortable inside the hut. I slept so well and long that I missed the 8am calf feeding; I must have needed the extra hour! I was woken up by the resident peacock coming to say hello. Not a bad alarm clock.
I thoroughly enjoyed glamping on the farm, I could definitely get used to that kind of overnight accommodation, especially when travelling alone. It was so lovely – I can’t say quiet as the air was filled with the sounds of animals – but I can definitely say peaceful. My shepherd’s hut bucket list item ticked off, and an excellent place to allow me to explore the Test Valley for a couple of days.
Hiking Town and Country in the Test Valley
My favourite way to explore an area is to do so on foot, walking in towns and hiking in countryside. And apart from a spot of glamping overnight, that is where the outdoorsy nature of this two-day break in the Test Valley comes in. I walked – and walked – thousands of steps to see as much of this very pretty part of Hampshire as I could.
I did some intentional hiking, following routes I found on OS Maps, and some almost-aimless wandering through the streets of picturesque towns and villages – the latter is how you really get to know somewhere. There was also of walking done at two of the Test Valley’s most popular tourist attractions, but more on that a little later in this article.
Romsey and its Abbey
Romsey is found at the southern end of the Test Valley, and is most famous for its large Abbey and medieval streets. The Abbey really does dominate the town; dating back to 907AD, it’s the largest parish church in Hampshire. Then just around the corner, there is the medieval King John’s House, a Tudor cottage and former Victorian gun shop, which together make an interesting heritage centre. Quite the variety of eras in this one little market town!
My intention for Romsey, though, was to hike a pretty six-mile loop taking in the Romsey Barge Canal, Fishlake Meadows, River Test, Squabb Wood, part of the Test Way, and back over the River Test to Romsey Abbey. I’d allowed three-hours to do this walk slowly and intentionally, taking in the wetlands, woodlands, and wildlife along the way.
It started very well indeed – leaving town via the tow path along the only surviving stretch of the Andover and Redbridge Canal to get to the pretty and bird-filled Fishlake Meadows Nature Reserve. There are over 170 species of bird in this floodplain habitat, including osprey, bittern, cuckoo and starling. Oh, and there are otters here, too.
Getting in the River Test…
Alas, just under three miles in, not quite half-way, the footpath became completely impassable as the river had burst its banks. I’d already been playing the footpath-or-river game for a mile or so, and until that point had gotten away with it. But there was a stretch after Great Bridge where I found myself nearly up to my knees in river water and silt… I mean, I hadn’t intended to get in the River Test on this trip, but it seems I should have packed my kayak!
With soaking wet boots and therefore feet, I backtracked and headed down into Romsey on a different – drier – route. It was a real shame as I missed the Squabb Wood and Test Way sections of this loop, I know they are supposed to be incredibly pretty, but it wasn’t to be on this occasion. Sometimes you just have to be happy to retreat (and thank past-you for packing a spare pair of shoes and socks just in case!).
This is the route I’d planned to follow, curated by AA Walks on OS Maps. While I didn’t finish it, I would still recommend this hike to others looking for a short hike in the Test Valley. The part I hiked was so beautiful, and I will return one day to get the rest done.
All was not lost for me in Romsey, though, as once I’d dried and changed, I had a lovely wander around the town to see some of those interesting old buildings I mentioned earlier. And had a fantastic lunch in the comfortable and friendly Tea Cups café and tearoom – my homemade soup and scone were delicious, and felt like just reward.
Common Marsh at Stockbridge
Stockbridge is an attractive town right in the centre of the Test Valley, halfway between Romsey and Andover. The straight-lined main high street was once part of a drovers road along which flocks of sheep and herds of cattle would be walked on the way to Wales. How life has changed.
It makes for a lovely place to spend a couple of hours, with its independent shops and riverside cafés. The River Test flows under the high street, and it’s possible to see trout from above – maybe one of the reasons the Houghton Club, the oldest fishing club in England, was founded here in 1882.
There’s plenty of walking to be done, both urban and countryside. Thanks to the town being a regular inspiration to poets, there’s a town trail of ten poems set in stone, metal and glass.
For me, the pull of Stockbridge was to see the famous Common Marsh of the River Test. Especially as I’d failed to properly explore the Romsey marshes the previous day. I followed the wildlife walk suggested by the National Trust, who manage the common, picking up the Test Way down from the high street onto the marsh. I walked a couple miles, meandering along, enjoying a different kind of wild and rugged landscape to that which I’m used to back home in the Cotswolds.
It was so pretty, especially as the sun started to set (and even in the rain), and I would highly recommend venturing onto the marsh when you visit the Test Valley.
Danebury Hillfort
Very close to Stockbridge (a five minute-drive), I headed to Danebury Iron Age Hillfort, a Scheduled Ancient Monument with high ramparts sat on a hill surrounded by downland countryside.
Danebury was originally built around in about 550BC, and was actively used for nearly 500 years as a central place for community, trade and protection, and as a religious site with shrines and temples. It’s likely 300-400 people lived here, and that the fortifications were designed to protect livestock and grain.
It is one of the most studied hillforts in Europe, which has helped the understanding Iron Age society and its fortifications. We’re not far from Stonehenge here (Salisbury is a 35-minute drive away), but visiting Danebury is free…
It’s also now a designated local nature reserve, and I’m so glad I visited as it was well worth an hour or so of my time – possibly my favourite One Hour Outside of my Test Valley trip.
I parked in the lower parking area (there are toilets in the upper car park), and first walked up to the trig pillar on the hill. Despite sitting at just 129 metres above sea level, there are beautiful views all around thanks to the geography of this area.
After bagging the trig pillar (the only one I bagged on my visit to the Test Valley), I explored the hillfort itself. There were a few paths to choose from, and I chose a well-trodden route on top of one of the high ramparts, which took me in a big loop around the site. I had views at times and walked through woodland at others. It was a lovely place to wander, with a few information boards to tell me the stories of those who once lived here.
Two Test Valley Attractions
While my style of getting outside is generally about parking up somewhere and exploring on foot, there are also a number of interesting pay-to-get-in attractions in the Test Valley which are worth a visit. I was invited to visit the Hawk Conservancy Trust and St Harold Hiller Gardens, two popular local attractions offering an outdoors-focused day out.
Hawk Conservancy Trust
It was at the Hawk Conservancy Trust where I fell a little bit more in love with vultures. I don’t know what it is about these weird birds, but I think they are quite majestic in their ugliness. I learnt that many species of vulture are endangered now because they are getting caught up in poaching; poachers are poisoning them so they don’t give away the location of their kills in time for Rangers to find them. People can be horrible.
The Hawk Conservancy Trust has a mission for the conservation of birds of prey, which the charity does through evidence-based conservation management both in the UK and overseas. Set within 22 acres of countryside, the centre in Weyhill is home to a wide variety of birds of prey. The aim of the centre is to educate visitors while the team cares for the birds. The National Bird of Prey Hospital is based at the same site.
Being a damp day, there seemed to only be a handful of visitors wandering around the aviaries (are they still aviaries if the birds are this big?!). Of note were the Burrowing Owl, Tawny Owl and a grumpy-looking Bald Eagle who seemed to dislike the rain!
Wings of Africa
The morning flying display was called, ‘Wings of Africa’. I was definitely the odd one out with just my phone camera, but that didn’t change my enjoyment. Nor did the rain. We were introduced to Victoria the African Fish Eagle, who showed off her fishing skills, Fagan the Hooded Vulture, who was probably my favourite bird of the day, and (a very cheeky) Rafiki the Northern Bald Ibis, amongst others.
The commentator provided heaps of information about each bird of prey, and we watched them fly and swoop and do all the other bird-like things. Unfortunately, on the day of my visit, the famous Secretary Bird was having a routine checkup with the bird doctor, but I did get to see him in his aviary later.
I could easily have hung around at the centre all day. Having enjoyed the Wings of Africa display so much, I would have loved to see the Masters of the Sky display, as well as the Woodland Owls flying display. But I had lots of other things to see and do in the Test Valley, so I had to move on. I will make sure I allow all day next time.
Oh, and I should add that the food in the onsite Feathers Restaurant was delicious. I had the club sandwich and was glad I hadn’t prepared a packed a lunch that day!
St Harold Hillier Gardens
After lunch, I headed over to St Harold Hillier Gardens, where the rhododendrons were a multi-coloured spectacle. And I mean that with every ounce of hyperbole you might have read it with.
Not far from Romsey, Sir Harold Hillier Gardens is an arboretum covering 180 acres and home to over 42,000 trees and shrubs. Known especially for its collection of oaks, camellia, magnolia and rhododendron, there is also a large display of acer, heather, hydrangea, peony, wisteria and more.
It was a beautiful and peaceful place to visit. I spent a couple of hours wandering amongst the flowers and trees, enjoying the peace and quiet. Nature in places like this is much more curated that I normally choose to enjoy on my outdoor adventures – I’m a big fan of wild and rugged countryside – but I can see why places like this exist. Being in amongst all that colour was wonderful.
I walked a full circuit of the site, constantly wowed by the variety of plants I was able to see. And how they were presented around a large pond, in bogland, in woodland with board walks and wobbly bridges, and in more formal settings.
The timing of my visit was impeccable; the rhododendrons were in full bloom. I wandered along every little meandering path in the rhododendron woodland to see as much colour as I could. It was just glorious. There are 1,307 different types of rhododendrons here, and I wanted to see every single one. No, I probably didn’t, but I gave it a good go!
Woodland Pigs
Trees will always be my favourite type of plant, and St Harold Hillier Gardens has the UK’s largest collection of Champion Trees – the biggest, rarest or oldest of their kind. There is also a large area named ‘Woods of the World’, which was once a dense forest plantation of mostly Douglas fir grown for timber, but is now home to various trees native to North America, Japan and Europe. In its early stages as a project, the area already includes rare mountain ash and white beam.
And while the rhododendrons probably should have been the highlight of my afternoon, I’m afraid they were somewhat overshadowed by the woodland pigs… The gardens have saddleback pigs who clear the scrubland, helping to take care of the woodland floor. And they are clearly loving life! To see them I had to walk right to the very edge of the site, where they are working their way through a large fenced off area of woodland. It was just me and the pigs, no-one else seemed to leave the pond or the rhododendron garden.
As with the Hawk Conservancy Trust, I could definitely have spent longer at St Harold Hillier Gardens, and while my two-hour visit wasn’t rushed, it could easily have stretched to double with more time wandering (and a visit to the café).
Returning to the Test Valley
As I said at the top of this post, I did only scratch the surface on what there is to do in the Test Valley. Even for outdoor lovers, there’s much more to do than I was able to squeeze into two days. If you are heading to this area, I would recommend at least a long weekend, if not longer.
For example, I didn’t even drive through Andover on my visit – and know I could have spent a whole day there exploring the town, visiting the Andover Museum, Finkley Down Farm, and seeing a show at The Lights Theatre or Plaza Theatre.
I also didn’t visit Paultons Park (Peppa Pig World probably isn’t aimed at people like me…), Mottisfont (a National Trust property), the Museum of Army Flying, or Haughton Lodge and gardens.
And of course, I didn’t walk the 44-mile-long Test Way (here on OS Maps). This official long-distance hike takes walkers from the high chalk downs at Inkpen and follows much of the course of the River Test downstream to Eling near Southampon – through many of the places I visited on this trip. But you know, this means I have to return to the Test Valley for another long weekend some time. The hike has gone on my list.
Getting Outside in the Test Valley
I would highly recommend the Test Valley to anyone looking for a short break in the UK which involves spending a lot of time outside. My couple of days exploring the area were lovely, and know I will be back for more in the not too distant future.
I can also recommend the Shepherd’s Hut at Michelmersh Manor Farm as a great base for one or several nights in this area – a cosy retreat which still has an outdoors focus without needing to pitch a tent or pack camping gear.
Thank you to Test Valley Borough Council (Visit Test Valley), Michelmersh Manor Farm, the Hawk Conservancy Trust, and St Harold Hillier Gardens for looking after me when I visited. This wasn’t a paid gig, but it was a gifted opportunity I decided to take (no money, just the experience). Splodz Blogz isn’t my job, and so I can choose to take these ‘in return for’ activities here and there when they ignite my interest and I have the time available. I have, of course, marked this article as gifted.
exoticindiatours
Your outdoor exploration in the Test Valley is inspiring! Thanks for sharing your adventures and stunning photos with us.