AMONGST DUNES AND GRIEF | Episode 173

A little over a month ago, my husband died.

It was sudden. A road accident.

And since then, everything has stopped. Everything has changed. Everything is different.

Splodz Blogz | In the Sahara Desert, Morocco
With my husband in the dunes of the Sahara Desert.

I’m not going to talk about the circumstances here. What happened is being investigated, and I want – need – that process to be thorough and proper, without rumour or hearsay clouding it. I therefore ask, gently but firmly, that no one tries to guess or make assumptions. I may choose to tell the full story at some point. But not now. Not yet. Until then, please respect that boundary.

This blog has always been my space to share, a creative outlet where I try to make sense of the life I’ve been given. And while doing that feels almost impossible right now, I know that turning to familiar tools is part of how I begin to process pain. So, I’m here. Writing. Or trying to.

This month has been the hardest of my life. I haven’t even begun to truly process what’s happened. As someone who usually finds solace in words, the fact that none seem adequate, that none come close, only deepens the ache. I’m still in shock. I feel sad, flat, utterly hollow. My mind is somehow both bursting and blank at the same time. I’m tired in a way I’ve never experienced, exhausted all the way through. The loss of my person makes me feel sick in my bones.

Splodz Blogz | Porthcawl Beach
‘British Summer’ on Porthcawl Beach

On Walking

And yet, even in the thick of this grief, I know there are things that help. They sound small, maybe even trite, but they’re vital. Eating well. Drinking water. Moving my body. Getting proper rest. Being outdoors.

I’ve spent years championing time outside – one hour at a time – for the benefit of body, mind, and soul. And I’ve tried to keep showing up for that. I’ve made it a point to go outside every single day. Mostly walking, as that’s always been my go-to. Sometimes alone, sometimes with friends. Some start right at my front door. Others take me further. Some walks have been barely more than a shuffle to the end of the road. Others have been longer, steadier stretches. Most fall somewhere in between.

I’m not going to pretend walking has healed anything. It hasn’t. Of course it hasn’t. But it’s helped me to breathe. And right now, that’s enough.

The weather being decent has helped too, otherwise I might have succumbed to the urge to curl up under a blanket and stay there indefinitely. Although, between us, it has been a bit too hot for hiking… and I’ve certainly been sweating far more than is dignified.

Splodz Blogz | Wales Coast Path at Merthyr Mawr Sand Dunes
Wales Coast Path sign at Merthyr Mawr Sand Dunes

Merthyr Mawr Warren

One of the longer hikes I’ve done was a ten-mile loop from Porthcawl, taken on the summer solstice – the longest day of the year. I set out to explore the beautiful Merthyr Mawr, with its remarkable sand dunes, a stretch of the Wales Coast Path, and some quiet woodland. It rained, but the air was still heavy with heat. That kind of thick, clinging warmth that makes every step feel a little harder than it should. And yet, it was gorgeous. Unexpectedly so. The kind of beauty that catches you off guard and stays with you.

Merthyr Mawr is home to the highest sand dune in Wales, affectionately known as the Big Dipper, and the second highest in Europe, rising around 200 feet. The dunes stretch across 840 acres, a vast and shifting landscape of golden sand, sea buckthorn, and whispering grasses. Some parts feel like desert, others like forest, and the whole place hums with a kind of ancient stillness. It’s where Lawrence of Arabia was filmed, so I’m sure you get the picture.

Splodz Blogz | Merthyr Mawr Sand Dunes
Walking at Merthyr Mawr.

Peace in the Dunes

But it’s more than just cinematic. The dunes are alive with contrast and quiet wonder. One moment you’re climbing a steep, sun-baked slope of soft sand, your calves burning and your breath short (sand is tough!); the next, you’re descending into a cool hollow where wild thyme and lady’s bedstraw scent the air. The paths twist through pockets of thick woodland and opens out onto saltmarsh and beach, and the wind carries the sounds and smells of the sea across the whole landscape.

There’s a strange kind of peace in the dunes. The kind that comes from walking through a place shaped by time and tide, where the scene is always changing but somehow eternal. I passed wildflowers clinging to the dunes, watched butterflies and bees flit through the air, and stood still long enough to hear the rustle of unknown creatures in the undergrowth (maybe lizards?). It felt like walking through a memory – one that didn’t belong to me but somehow welcomed me. Maybe the landscape knew Allister and I had such a strong memory of the dunes of the Sahara?

It didn’t fix anything. But it was wonderful all the same.

I found the walk I used as my inspiration on the Wales Coast Path website, and I’d recommend the route if you are in the area. They’ve curated loads of walks inspired by the Wales Coast Path, so it’s a site worth exploring. You can also find the route in OS Maps (affiliate link), although note I walked from the marina in Porthcawl, so added around four miles to the line shown on the map.

Splodz Blogz | Merthyr Mawr
River Ogmore, Merthyr Mawr.

A Short Film

I even filmed a little video while I was out. I’m not sure why, exactly – I haven’t made one in years – but it felt like the right moment to say hello. Writing has been so difficult lately, but capturing a few images of that walk, of that place, felt manageable.

What Happens Now?

I’m not entirely sure. And may not for a while. Which is okay. I think it’s okay to say that adventure isn’t over for me, I’m just not sure what it might look like, at least not this year.

I’ve got a few blog posts I’d started before all this happened – stories I still want to tell. Like running the Westonbirt 10k, hiking from Winchcombe to Bourton-on-the-Water and back along the Warden’s Way and Windrush Way, and trying my hand at riding an enduro bike on an Alex Snow Train and Trail weekend in Devon. I’ll be sharing those in the coming weeks, gently, when it feels right.

But for now, this is me, stepping back into this space. Not with a plan. Not with certainty. Just with honesty, and a willingness to keep walking.

Splodz Blogz | Wales Coast Path at Merthyr Mawr Sand Dunes

If you would like to read the tribute I wrote for my husband’s funeral, I published it here.

11 Responses

  1. Dan Rous

    So glad the bridge bit made it into the video. Smiling and laughing may not come easy in these days. But that bit of silliness is a wonderful reminder of happy days. Keep heading that way, but in whatever time is right for you. Wonderful writing and videography here Zoe. Ending with chips and the waves breaking on the shore was just perfect. God bless you and protect you and guide you in these days.

  2. Melanie Cawkwell

    Thank you for taking me with you on your journey. Keeping in you prayer

  3. delicately839a1a8c13

    Thanks so much for this Zoe. Thanks for the privilege of coming on this walk with you… listening to something of your bewildering grief … enjoying the landscape for its simple, understated beauty… the contrasting joy of solitude in nature & joy at seeing all those people enjoying the seaside! Thank you. Malc

  4. niall

    Impossible to say anything that will make you feel better but I admire your strength to still keep going and to share your grief with others. I cannot imagine the pain you are going through

  5. KEZZIE

    Oh Zoe, I am so terribly sorry for your loss. You don’t expect to lose your loved one and it is a tribute to your Allister that you are walking and keeping what you both loved at the heart of your current all consuming grief. You are amazing and Allister sounds amazing from what I read in your beautiful tribute. Be kind to yourself and keep walking, though the walk is hard. Much love, Kezzie xx

  6. Bernd

    Dear Zoe,

    in preparation for another Iceland trip, next year with my bike, I came across your Iceland post and also checked newer blog entries.

    I have very little words about the loss of your husband and I feel very sorry about it.

    I experienced the loss of my mother a year ago and I see how hard it is for my father. Both were married for 62 years and the sudden loss can’t be compensated.

    I wish you a lot of energie to oversome this loss and that you’ll get back to the things you love. His body is not around anymore but his soul is as well as all the time you shared with each other.

    All the best from a German biker,
    Bernd

  7. Sam

    Oh Zoe….I am so sorry for your loss.
    I actually opened your blog post about quirky stays (I haven’t read blog posts for so long, sorry), before intending to start writing a long overdue email reply to Allister.
    To see the link and read these posts, I can only say right now, that the quote about leaving a hole in many people’s lives is something I feel.
    I cannot comprehend how you must be feeling and have no words that help.
    You had some wonderful adventures and time together, and I hope the investigations etc. don’t drag on too long, so that you can draw a line under them and process your grief.
    Thank you for continuing to share your life and experiences for the rest of us to not feel alone in so many different experiences. Sam O.

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