On turning two one-day hikes into an overnight hiking adventure in the Cotswolds: Hiking the Warden’s Way and Windrush Way. Part 1 – the Warden’s Way from Winchcombe to Bourton-on-the-Water.
Note: This adventure took place in March 2025, before this happened.
The Windrush Way and Warden’s Way are a delightful duo of 14-mile trails winding through the heart of the Cotswolds, linking Winchcombe and Bourton-on-the-Water in a scenic series of rolling countryside, attractive villages, and thick yet calm woodlands.
Having dipped in and out of these routes before, and given that they are on my doorstep, I decided it was time to walk them properly. So, to round off March 2025, I turned them into a two-day hiking adventure.
An Overnight Hiking Adventure
On the first day – a Friday – I tackled the Warden’s Way, a serene and scenic trail that led me through peaceful woodlands, along little streams, through charming yellow villages, and over gentle hills. By the time I reached Bourton-on-the-Water (fondly dubbed by many as “the Venice of the Cotswolds”), I felt a world away from home despite hardly traveling any distance at all. An overnight stay sealed the feeling of a proper getaway.
The following morning, I traced my way back to Winchcombe via the Windrush Way, an equally delightful but subtly different trail, offering views of the picturesque countryside, and alive with the colours of early spring. The whole adventure was easy-going, full of picturesque scenery, and the perfect excuse to savour an overnight hike so early in the year.
These two trails complemented each other beautifully, and walking them on consecutive days made for a lovely weekend loop and an ideal way to have some quality time outdoors at the start of spring.
Adventure Journal Time
In this two-part adventure journal, I’ll share the details of my experience on both routes, including the moments that made me pause to take it all in, as well as the practical things that might help you plan your own similar hike. As always, there will be reflections on the landscape, notes on the villages I passed through, and a few tales from the trail – including the small joys that make hiking in the Cotswolds so special.
This post will concentrate on day one – the Warden’s Way.
Download file for GPSSee the full route in OS Maps.
The Warden’s Way
The Warden’s Way is a 14-mile hiking route that connects Winchcombe to Bourton-on-the-Water, winding through some of the most picturesque villages in the Cotswolds. It’s moderate in difficulty, due to its length rather than terrain, with rolling countryside, woodland paths, and quiet lanes. There are some gentle climbs, but nothing too strenuous, making it a day hike doable by most keen hikers who are used to being on their feet all day. The paths are well-marked, and the terrain is generally easy to navigate, though some sections will be (very) muddy after rain or in winter.
Views wise, the Warden’s Way is all about classic Cotswold landscapes. The route passes through Upper and Lower Slaughter, Naunton, and Guiting Power (not in that order), each offering charming cottages, historic churches, and peaceful streams. The River Eye adds to the beauty, especially as it winds through the particularly picturesque Lower Slaughter. There’s also plenty of history along the way. The route starts near Sudeley Castle, a site with deep royal connections. Naunton features a fantastic example of a medieval dovecote, and Lower Slaughter is home to a historic water mill. The villages themselves are steeped in Cotswold heritage, with honey-coloured stone buildings and centuries-old pubs.
Winchcombe
Winchcombe is a true gem for walkers, nestled in the Cotswolds and brimming with trails that weave through breathtaking landscapes and historic sites. It’s no surprise I keep finding myself drawn back to this place – something about its welcoming atmosphere and endless walking opportunities makes it irresistible.
And the fact that it’s right on my doorstep, of course.
Winchcombe holds ‘Walkers are Welcome’ status, meaning those who run the place have hikers in mind, offering well-maintained paths, waymarked routes, and plenty of places to rest, refuel, and soak in the charm of this historic town. Apart from the Warden’s Way and Windrush Way I’m featuring here, there’s also the Cotswold Way, a 102-mile National Trail that passes right through the village, and the Winchcombe Way, a 40-mile figure-of eight route with Winchcombe at its heart – and more.
The town is steeped in history, with highlights like Sudeley Castle, Belas Knap Long Barrow, and the remnants of Hailes Abbey adding layers of intrigue to walks in this area. Beyond the trails, Winchcombe’s independent shops, cosy cafés, and traditional pubs make it a perfect base for a day – or more – of exploration.
Anyway, on this particular occasion, I got the bus into Winchcombe so I didn’t need to park anywhere overnight. There’s something about using public transport for multi-day hikes that adds to the adventure somehow. Means the fun starts from my front door rather than my car door, or something like that. The bus dropped me off outside the Co-op at one end of the village, so I grabbed an apple juice to supplement the water I was carrying, and made my way to the start.
Getting Started
The Warden’s Way starts on Abbey Terrace in Winchcombe, right outside St Peter’s Church, near the site of what was Winchcombe Abbey. The way marking starts straight away and remains pretty good for the whole route. I did have to refer to my map a couple of times to be sure of the right fork in the path, but as with other trails around Winchcombe, the signage is really very good.
I’d have liked to have seen a start/finish plaque on the wall somewhere in the village – maybe there is one, but I missed it (do tell me if that’s the case!)? Instead, I grabbed a selfie at the first signpost I saw to help jog my memory when I reach old age, and got on with the hike. The walking starts down Vineyard Street past some beautiful houses and up and into the grounds of Sudeley Castle.
Built in 1443, Sudeley Castle is famous for its unique distinction as the only privately owned castle with a Queen of England – Catherine Parr – buried on its grounds. Catherine was the sixth and final wife of Henry VIII, and after his death, she married Thomas Seymour and moved to Sudeley Castle, where she died in childbirth in 1548. Today, Sudeley is a popular visitor attraction that’s well worth a look if you are in the area (including the excellent winter lights display), offering a glimpse into England’s rich history.
While the Warden’s Way doesn’t go right past the front door, it gets pretty close as it crosses the meadows surrounding the castle. I knew I’d get even closer the following day as I returned to Winchcombe, but for now it was an excellent way to start my hike.
Two Miles Up
With Sudeley Castle behind me, I started a two-mile uphill section of the trail. It isn’t particularly steep at any point, but you know, it’s all up hill, so you do notice it. It was a glorious day with excellent visibility and so I was able to break up the ascent with plenty of stops to look back as Winchcombe sunk into the valley behind me.
Other than for navigation, one of the best reasons to carry an OS Map when you hike, is so you can pay attention to the various geographical features you might otherwise miss. On the way up the hill, I crossed over two such features – one marked ‘inner park wall’ and one marked ‘outer park wall’ – written in that ‘must be very old’ font Ordnance Survey uses. These labels likely refer to remnants of the historic parkland boundaries of Sudeley Castle. Estates and grand houses often had multiple layers of enclosure, with an inner wall marking the immediate grounds and an outer wall defining the broader estate or deer park. These walls might have been used to manage livestock, protect the estate, or delineate different areas of land use.
The uphill stretch finished at The Salt Way, a narrow lane marked in that same font on the OS Map. This is an ancient track that runs from Cheshire to the River Thames, through the Cotswolds. It historically served as a trade route for transporting salt, as the name suggests, connecting settlements and market towns. Since salt was such a valuable commodity, essential for both food preservation and trade, this would have been a well-travelled lane – although these days it is hardly used in favour of the wider roads that now weave through the landscape.
Guiting Wood
Doing well to ignore the beautiful and open gate leading into (private) woodland at Deadbanbury Gate, the Warden’s Way next headed down into and then up through Guiting Wood. I’ve walked here a few times before, and it’s a beautiful spot with thick woodland. I’ve said it before and I know I’ll say it again – probably even in this very blog post – but I love walking through woodland. I fully sign up to the science that says walking in amongst the trees is good for the soul. It’s just wonderful.
Next up was the beautiful and very Cotswoldsy village of Guiting Power. The village sits on the site of an Anglo-Saxon settlement called Gyting Broc, dating back to around the 8th century. The name ‘Guiting’ comes from the Saxon word getinge, meaning ‘rushing’, likely referring to the nearby River Windrush, which I’d be walking along the next day.
I’m told the café and pub here are meant to be very good, but I didn’t need to stop as I was carrying all the food and drink I needed to get me to my destination. Don’t worry, I made up for it in Bourton-on-the-Water later in the day!
But I did stop to make use of the new(ish) public toilet that’s been built in the churchyard of St Michael’s Church at the southern end of the village. The new loo is a waterless, eco-friendly one, ideal for churches without mains drainage. I mean, I know celebrating a toilet is a bit of an odd thing, but given how many walkers pass through Guiting Power, having a public toilet is a fantastic addition. It’s great to see churches embracing low-impact solutions that benefit both visitors and the local environment. Thanks to those who made that happen!
Lunch with Doves
The section from Guiting Power to Naunton goes across farmland – and as with the rest of the route, the path was both well signed and well defined, making it easy to follow. Another incredibly Cotswoldy village, Naunton sits in the valley on the River Windrush, and was mentioned in the Doomsday Book of 1066. The village has likely been inhabited for over 2,000 years.
The Warden’s Way took me right past the famous Naunton Dovecote, and given a perfectly placed bench in the sunshine there, it’s where I chose to stop and have a shoes-off lunch break.
The Naunton Dovecote is a well-preserved example of a post-medieval dovecote, likely dating to the 17th century. Originally built by the owners of the nearby manor house, it provided a steady supply of pigeons for food throughout the year. The dovecote features a four-gable design with a louvred wooden lantern at the top, allowing pigeons to enter while keeping out birds of prey. Inside, it once housed over 1,175 nesting boxes, though some were later blocked to prevent rats from reaching the nests.
Unusually, this dovecote is located in a river valley rather than on higher ground, making it a distinctive landmark. Over time, it was repurposed, even serving as a grain mill at one point. Today, it’s a striking feature, offering a glimpse into the traditions of the past.
Leaving Naunton involved more uphill walking, and my only cows of the two-day hiking adventure. I’m pretty sure there are more horses in this part of the Cotswolds than cows, but you do find a field of them every now and again. They had absolutely no interest in me, though, which is always good!
Permissive Footpath
I was very pleased to discover the short section of this route that follows the busy B4068 is now a permissive footpath that runs parallel to the road. Instead of having to navigate the busy road itself, which I’ve done a few times before, the path now allows walkers to stay off the tarmac, offering a safer and more enjoyable experience.
The footpath runs through trees before descending to a metal gate, where it connects back to the main trail. It’s a great example of how local efforts can enhance walking routes, making them more accessible while preserving the natural surroundings. I am grateful to the landowner and all others involved in creating the updated route.
After the surprise and welcome quarter-mile alternative, the Warden’s Way turns left to follow the River Eye and head through woodland and meadows on the way to the well recognised and very popular Slaughter villages.
The Famous Slaughters
Despite the name, which is rooted not in violence but the Old English ‘slohtre’, meaning ‘muddy place’, this pair of villages are amongst the prettiest in the Cotswolds. Upper Slaughter appears first, quiet and self-assured, with its cluster of golden stone cottages nestled above the meandering River Eye. It’s the sort of place that doesn’t clamour for attention, and perhaps because of that, leaves an unexpectedly strong impression.
From here, the footpath gently descends through fields (which are often incredibly boggy), until it threads walkers through a narrow, almost secretive passage alongside the old watermill – quite an entrance into Lower Slaughter. I love how the Warden’s Way chooses to introduce this postcard-famous village: not with fanfare, but with a moment of intimacy. The millstream babbles beside you, and in just a few steps, the village opens up around you. It’s timeless and cinematic, with mellow stone buildings reflecting in the slow-moving waters of the River Eye.
Lower Slaughter is undeniably beautiful, and as such, it is also very popular. Unless you walk through very early or late in the day, you’ll be sharing the prettiest streets in the Cotswolds with a fair few other people. When you visit, it’s worth remembering that people call these cottages home, so a little restraint goes a long way; admire the charming windows and cute doors, but you know, don’t peer into them… And while the river adds to the magic, it’s not a spot for paddling; that comes a bit later, when we reach Bourton-on-the-Water.
Bourton-on-the-Water
I landed in Bourton-on-the-Water at the track that leads to Jeremy Clarkson’s Hawkstone Brewery — a little tempting, but I resisted the siren call and pressed on into the village. After all, exploring Bourton was the point of making this a two-day adventure. The final mile or so took me through a quiet residential stretch, past a school, and out onto the main street of this famously picturesque Cotswolds village.
As mentioned above, this place is often dubbed ‘Venice of the Cotswolds’. This is thanks to the five low stone bridges that span the River Windrush as it flows gently through the heart of the village. The oldest bridge dates back to 1654, and the river itself was once diverted to power three mills — one of which now houses the Cotswold Motor Museum, where you can say hello to the original Brum. Bourton’s history stretches back to Neolithic times, and its honey-coloured stone cottages and willow-lined greens have made it a postcard favourite for generations.
The Warden’s Way officially finishes at the War Memorial, which sits right on the riverbank. I’d made good time and arrived a little early to check in to my accommodation, so I headed to a café I’ve visited a few times before — only to find it closed. Instead, I stumbled into the always popular Bakery on the Water for coffee and cake. It was a deliciously relaxed place to spend an hour, albeit at classic Cotswolds prices.
Considering it was the end of March, the village was surprisingly busy. I’d also completely forgotten that Bourton has virtually no phone signal, so I relied on various free Wi-Fi connections I found dotted around. Good job I’d downloaded maps to my phone, something worth doing if you’re planning to hike the same route.
A Relaxed Evening
I stayed at the Duke of Wellington, an inn with rooms just a stone’s throw from the end of my hike, situated right next door to the Motor Museum. It felt slightly surreal to stay in a hotel so close to home. I mean, I could have driven back in 35 minutes, even with a bit of traffic. But staying overnight turned these two one-day hikes into a proper little adventure. The cost — £78 for the night with breakfast included via Booking.com — seemed well worth it. It also gave me the chance to explore a little more in the early evening, when the crowds had thinned.
It turns out the reason the streets were quieter was because everyone was already eating. I became a victim of the walk-in curse; even solo diners can’t get tables at restaurants these days. The first three places I tried didn’t have space, even for one. I ended up in a gastro pub for dinner, which did the job, although I’d been thinking about eating a burger all day, which they didn’t have on the menu — but I did have a decent meal and a nice evening.
And of course, with dinner done and having walked a little over 14 miles — plus all the extra wandering around Bourton — it was early to bed to rest up for the return leg the following day.
Reflections on Hiking the Warden’s Way
The Warden’s Way made for an excellent day hike, offering up some quintessential Cotswold scenery — rolling hills, honey-stone villages, and winding paths through woodland and farmland. It helped that the weather was unusually kind for late March: not quite cloudless, but dry and bright enough to open up some truly expansive views.
The route itself was a joy to follow. A few uphill sections kept things interesting, but nothing too strenuous. The paths were well-marked and easy to navigate, and thanks to the dry spell, there wasn’t a patch of mud in sight. It was the kind of walk where you could simply relax into the rhythm of your steps and let the landscape do the talking.
It felt satisfying to walk the Warden’s Way in full, linking up footpaths I’ve wandered before, but never quite in this way. Even after countless miles in this part of the country, the Cotswolds still found ways to surprise me. There’s something about walking a trail end-to-end that deepens your connection to the land.
I clocked 14.7 trail miles in total (not counting my extra village wandering), and it took me around 5.5 hours — including that lunch break in Naunton and plenty of stops for photos. I went to bed that night with tired legs and a full heart, already looking forward to the next day’s journey.
Because of course, this was only the first half of my hiking adventure. The following morning, I’d set off again — this time tracing the Windrush Way back to Winchcombe, a route that promised a quieter kind of beauty. Come back soon for the rest of the story.
A reminder of the Warden’s Way route on OS Maps…
Don’t have a subscription to OS Maps? Use OSCHAMPS to claim three months free premium access to the app (affiliate link, code works best via the mobile app) – it’s a game-changer for planning and sharing your hikes.
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