THREE SHORT HIKES IN MADEIRA

Three short hikes in Madeira features my regular collaboration with adidas.

Hiking in Madeira is like embarking on a journey into a fairy tale land. But while there are some big hikes – some really big hikes, there are also some beautiful short hikes in Madeira which show off some of the incredible natural beauty on this island without demanding too much time or exertion. 

Even if you are only on this Portuguese island in the Atlantic for a week of winter sun, like I was, getting out into the wilds to explore on foot should be on your list of things to do. There are a bunch of popular hiking routes, most of them making use of the famous irrigation channels – the levadas. 

Short hikes in Madeira offer a great deal of satisfaction in terms of views with only a little effort. In the few miles we hiked, we saw waterfalls and streams, cliffs and crags, forests and farmland, and viewpoints overlooking mountains and the ocean. 

In this article I want to share the three short hikes we did in Madeira, including two levada walks, and a climb to the top of Madeira’s highest peak, Pico de Ruivo. Each of these three trails offered a unique experience, and took between 45-minutes and three-hours to complete. 

Madeira

With flights taking just four hours from the UK, and a mild climate year-round, Maderia is a very popular holiday destination for us Brits. We went to this beautiful Portuguese island last month for our now-almost-annual winter sun holiday, having previously done the same in Gran Canaria, Tenerife, and Lanzarote just a bit further over in the Atlantic. There is something so wonderful about getting away from the cold and damp UK in February each year, it’s a real mood lifter – it’s good to warm the bones!

I shared a lot about my week in Funchal, Madeira in Weekly Blog Episode 144, so if you want to know how we got there, where we stayed, and everything we did that wasn’t hiking, do head over there to read that article. This post, though, which is in collaboration with adidas and their fantastic women’s outdoor shoes (mine are the super comfortable and very grippy Terrex Free Hiker 2.0 Low Gore-Tex), is all about the hiking. 

It would be easy to book a package holiday to a hotel by the sea in Madeira and not leave the resort. But I always recommend making an effort to get out and explore the local area; and what better way than by heading out on a short hike in the sunshine?

Those Famous Levadas 

I can’t write about short hikes in Madeira without providing at least a short history lesson… 

Levadas are man-made water channels unique to the island of Madeira. They were originally created to transport water from the northern regions of the island – which were super wet – down to the drier southern areas where most of the island’s population lived and farmed the land. 

First created in the 15th Century, levadas are an ingenious irrigation system. The network is made up of over 2,500km of these narrow channels which gently slope downhill, taking flowing water through forests and mountains to where it is needed. There are even tunnels and waterfalls built into the system – it really is a fascinating feat of engineering. 

The relevance here is that many of the channels have paths alongside them, which have been turned into walking routes. Some of these paths are nice and wide, offering an easy and accessible way to wander through moss-covered woodland and to see big views. While others provide a little more, er, adventurous way to get out into the landscape, with their narrow and winding on-the-edge-of-mountains routes through the country. 

Wear Decent Shoes!

You will see that I went to Madeira ready to walk – and I suggest you do the same, even for the short hikes I’m about to suggest. A pair of decent walking shoes or trainers, such as the Terrex Free Hiker you can see me wear in the photos in this article, are well worth the space in your suitcase. 

These shoes pair the lightweight feel of a trail runner with the stability of a hiking shoe – with the added benefit of being waterproof. The grip was essential to me feeling like I had my hiking well under control, especially alongside Levada Novo. 

Having worn the Free Hikers for at least a couple of hundred miles since the autumn, I’m very happy to recommend them. They are easily as comfortable as any trainers I’ve had, with a wide toe box to give me lots of room to wiggle my toes, and some decent structural elements around the heel and through the sole to give me a stable stride. Oh, and the Boost midsole does a great job of turning my input into movement – bouncy without feeling spongy.

Other Clothing and Kit 

Clothing wise, consider long trousers and layers on your top. Yes, Madeira is reasonably warm (it was between 17º and 22ºC for us), but as with any hike that takes you up big hills or into exposed areas, you may want a warm layer at some point along the route. And just look at how green it is… that colour doesn’t come without heaps of rain, so you may well need a waterproof. 

You can read more about the clothing I’m wearing in this gear review, and about the Free Hiker trainers in my One Hour Outside roundup. 

As for your other kit – water and snacks, of course, and maybe hiking poles if you are used to using them. I saw lots of people with hiking poles, which would have been beneficial on the descent from Pico de Ruivo, but weren’t needed anywhere else (in my opinion!). And a camera, you will one-hundred percent need a camera, with the time and patience to stop a lot to take photos of the amazing views! 

Getting to the Trailheads 

It is possible to hike in Madeira using public transport, using taxis, or by booking on one of the (many, many) guided hikes which include transport from Funchal and other towns. As we tend to do when on holidays like this, we chose to hire a car. We used Driving Madeira Rent a Car, booked via Booking.com.

I’ve seen it written that driving in Madeira is challenging due to the steep hills and narrow roads. Which is probably true, to some extent, but it seemed safe and straight forward to us. Yes, some of the roads are steep, and some are narrow, and some are steep and narrow. But it’s completely doable, and we didn’t have any issues. We made sure we had Madeira maps downloaded in both Google Maps and Scenic before we left home, so we had a usable satnav we were familiar with, and that meant we were all set. 

I’ve included Google Maps Pin links to the three trailheads below, so you can see where we parked for each – I recommend saving these to your Google account/satnav before you leave home so you have them ready to go. 

Three Short Hikes in Madeira

There are hundreds of hiking routes available throughout this beautifully green and rugged island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. But here I am sharing – and recommending – three short hikes in Madeira that provide a lovely little taste of the postcard views.

Let me start with the shortest one… then take you up a mountain… and then finish by endorsing my favourite of the three short hikes in Madeira we did. 

Vereda dos Balcoes (PR11)

Name: Vereda dos Balcoes, PR11 

Route: We followed this route on AllTrails (because OS Maps isn’t available in Madeira!)

Location: Ribeiro Frio, a 40-minute drive from Funchal 

Route type: There-and-back 

Distance: 3km (total)

Time: 45 minutes (total) 

Trailhead: Google Maps Pin (parking on the road)

Facilities: Cafes in Ru Ribeiro Frio, plus a kiosk a short distance along the trail.

About this Short Hike 

Vereda (which translates as ‘trail’) dos Balcoes is a short but beautiful hike through ancient moss-covered forest to a viewpoint overlooking the mountains and sea. Said to be one of the easiest levada hikes in Madeira, it really does provide a big reward for a small effort. 

Signposted as the PR11, the path along Levada do Juncal is wide and almost flat. It goes through the incredibly pretty Laurissilva Forest, a subtropical forest which has been a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999. At over 20-million years old, it’s something of a living fossil, and is utterly gorgeous – all the shades of green you’d expect from a home to fairies. 

The path is a bit rooty in places, and could easily get muddy, but the terrain is very easy to walk on. We arrived in mid-afternoon and were certainly not alone on the trail (it took us a couple of passes to grab a parking spot), but it was not busy, although I have heard some of the cruise buses come this way, so it probably does get a little crowded. 

The turnaround point is the Balcoes viewpoint, which has views of Pico do Areeiro, Pico Ruivo, Pico das Torres and Pico do Gato. Well, almost… Low cloud meant we only saw glimpses of the view. Thankfully this didn’t take away from this lovely little trail, it was still well worth an hour of our time.

Vereda do Pico Ruivo (PR1.2)

Name: Vereda do Pico Ruivo, PR1.2 

Route: We followed this route on AllTrails (because OS Maps isn’t available in Madeira!)

Location: Achada do Teixeira, near Santana, a 1-hour drive from Funchal 

Route type: There-and-back   

Distance: 6km (total)

Time: 2 hours (total) 

Trailhead: Google Maps Pin (large free car park)

Facilities: Excellent café and toilets (€0.50) at Achada do Teixeira, mountain refuge near the top.

About this Short Hike 

Not a Levada walk, the P1.2 is instead an excellent (and quick) way to get to the summit of Pico Ruivo, the highest point in Madeira. Standing at 1,862m above sea level, there are a few trails which get hikers onto this mountain, but this is the one we chose. 

The 6km round trip, a there-and-back route, will make you puff and pant with the incline (especially the last section to the summit), but it is more than worth the exertion. The path is very well maintained, rocky but manageable, with stone slabs and steps for much of the route. As it really only has 300-ish metres of ascent, it’s accessible for the reasonably fit.

It is, quite simply, a glorious hike. I would absolutely go back to do this one again. The views start great and just keep getting better. Not only big mountain views – we experienced the most beautiful cloud inversion – but also brightly coloured birds, beautiful wildflowers, high-altitude heath, interesting rock formations, and sun-bleached trees. It’s a dramatic landscape, and an excellent way to see the wild and rugged scenery of Madeira. 

It should be said that this was a busy trail – hikers do spread out along it, but the summit was buzzing with a steady stream of people arriving to enjoy the views. Saying that, though, it was easy to find a spot for our own people-free photos. We started reasonably early, arriving at the large free car park a little after 9am. When we returned a couple of hours later it was absolutely rammed (the parking was interesting!). 

Oh, and this is a mountain – check the weather before you go, and carry layers!

Levada do Moinho and Levada Nova 

Name: Levada do Moinho and Levada Nova  

Route: We followed this route on AllTrails (because OS Maps isn’t available in Madeira!)

Location: Lombada da Ponta do Sol, a 35-minute drive from Funchal 

Route type: Circular  

Distance: 9km 

Time: 3.5 hours 

Trailhead: Google Maps Pin (parking bays by the church)

Facilities: Kiosk and toilets at the trailhead, but I recommend heading to Ponta do Sol for a sea-side lunch.

About this Short Hike 

This was my favourite hike of the three (yes, even considering the massive mountain views from Pico Ruivo). And it is probably my favourite hike of 2024 so far. It was pretty, serene, very green, and felt like I was getting to know rural Madeira. 

The two Levadas on this trail – Moinho and Nova – run more-or-less parallel to each other, but one sits around 150m higher than the other. We chose to do Moinho first, the lower of the two, before heading up the side of the hill and returning via Levada Nova. 

The trail starts behind the church in Lombada da Ponta, which is not far from the sea at Ponta do Sol. The narrow path takes a winding route at an almost imperceptible incline inland, past agricultural land (you can see how the Levadas work here, with the gates opening above the steep fields), through woodland, along the hill side, and past a few waterfalls. 

Waterfalls

The midway point on the AllTrails route could do with a bit of adjusting. Instead of taking the steps marked, keep following the same path until it crosses over to the other side of the river (clamber over the boulders), or you’ll miss the tallest and most impressive waterfall on the trail. There’s a lovely picnic spot here, too – an attractive camp kitchen made from stone with a view of the falls. 

To return, first keep following the same path north until it crosses back over the river on the weir (or using stones/boulders if it’s high), and head up the side of the hill to meet Levada Nova. Much higher up, the views from this path are breathtaking, helped because you are now walking towards the sea. It is much narrower, and it’s right by the edge without a railing in places – so take care. A highlight of Levada Nova was when the path went behind a waterfall and then through a tunnel (you can see the other end but you will want some kind of torch to feel confident). 

The trail is straightforward in both directions, just a little adventurous thanks to how narrow and high it is. As this is not a designated route like PR1.2 and PR11 above, we did stop to check the map two or maybe three times where other trails met our path, but navigation was simple enough.

Honestly, this is a must-do in my opinion. Just gorgeous. 

On Hiking in Madeira

I shouldn’t need to offer up a disclaimer, but I will… Each of these routes varies in distance and difficulty, and you should always research and choose routes that match your fitness and how you like to spend your time outdoors. Go prepared – don’t forget your hiking shoes, plenty of water, sun protection, snacks, and a rain jacket. Take your time, don’t hike in the hottest part of the day, and be sure to practise leave no trace.

If you have your own recommendations of short hikes in Madeira, please do drop me a comment below so I and others can add them to our to-hike lists.

I am a member of the adidas blogger community. The kit (shoes, trousers and top) you see me wear in the photos in this post is all from the (fantastic) Terrex range – all purchased with the gift vouchers which form the payment for this post.