I planned to hike the Winchcombe Way in the Cotswolds in one weekend. This adventure journal is the story of how it ended up taking two years. And the lessons I learnt through perceived hiking failure.
The Winchcombe Way is a 42-mile figure-of-eight trail centred on the walker-friendly village of Winchcombe. This long-distance trail is designed to show walkers the hidden gems of the northern Cotswolds, and I can confirm it does just that.
Being a figure-of-eight route based around a decent sized village with good amenities, the Winchcombe Way can very easily be split into two 21-mile walks – a western loop and an eastern loop. These two hikes are still challenging due to their length, but doable thanks to the reasonably low-level geography. There are some rolling hills, a handful of steep ascents and descents, but nothing too arduous. Underfoot, the terrain is reasonable, thanks to predominantly well-made footpaths and bridleways, some farm tracks and country lanes. And the signposting is excellent, so navigation doesn’t slow things down.
My Winchcombe Way Hike
Back in April 2021, I decided to tackle this pretty route on two consecutive days. Winchcombe is local, I have hiked in the area quite a bit, and thought this would make a most excellent weekend-long adventure.
But in all honesty, I wasn’t fit enough or strong enough at that time (this was pre-Coast to Coast, and it was likely I was already quite anaemic). Instead, after the western loop wiped me out completely for well over a week (I should have realised that tiredness wasn’t normal), I changed my plan. I had every intention of doing the second one a bit later in that same summer…
Fast forward a couple of years, and the eastern half of the trail remained un-hiked. It took until May 2023 for me to get that second loop walked – in what turned out to be two smaller hikes midway between my Cotswold Way and Cumbria Way adventures.
And yes, the ridiculous fact it’s taken another year on top of that to write about this adventure experience is not lost on me.
The Moral of this Story
Before I get too far into telling the tale of my Winchcombe Way hike, and share the many reasons you should consider hiking this one yourself, I want to start with the moral of the story. I learn something every time I set myself a challenge these days, but the experience of this particular adventure was to change the way I look at hiking completely.
On this occasion, the lessons were two-fold:
- You don’t have to do big miles to have a great hike.
- You don’t have to do every inch of your planned route for the hike to count.
Let me elaborate.
Hiking Lesson One
Walking long-distance hiking routes can be one of my favourite ways to spend a week off work – but I am allowed to want to do that one day and stay in bed the next.
The Winchcombe Way taught me that I can do big miles if I want to, but I can stick to shorter hikes if I prefer. And they are both fun, and both worthy of my time. It’s okay to enjoy long days out some days, and not be motivated to do anything more than a couple of hours on other days.
Choosing to hike big miles or not can absolutely be based on the weather forecast, how much sleep I got the previous night, or indeed, whether there was enough milk in the fridge to make a second cup of tea before I walk out of my front door.
I learnt, that while I love the adventure of lengthy day hikes and multi-day hikes, they are sometimes filled with too much pressure in terms of time and distance. Meandering along for an hour or two is so joyful, and I discovered I wanted to make more time for that. And splitting a long hike into a number of short ones is a great way to get the best of both worlds.
I have remembered this lesson over the last couple of years, and it’s the reason why I added ‘seek out short walks and do them slowly’ to my Bucket List for both 2023 and 2024.
Hiking Lesson Two
The Winchcombe Way also taught me that the line I draw on the map, and the plan I make ahead of a hiking day (or week), doesn’t have to completely dictate what I end up doing. It is a guide. Important and sensible to have, but there to be adjusted as the mood takes me.
This might be about changing plans before I leave home for the trail. It is also about being okay to change my mind about a route midway through – and act on it. I am allowed to turn back, take a shortcut, leave a two-year gap before I do the rest. It’s all good.
And while it’s important to know when to push through when I’m struggling on a particular ascent, or my legs feel heavy first thing in the morning (more on that when I write my Coledale Round adventure journal), it’s also important to know when it’s time to leave it alone.
This is another lesson I’ve remembered. Just look at what we did to the Cumbria Way. Whereas previously I might have been a purist when it comes to marked long-distance trails, and insisted we did the long (and dull…) road walk to end in the overly busy city of Carlisle, now I’m much more relaxed about doing the thing that makes it most fun.
A Good Reminder
I mean, I knew all this, but sometimes I need to be reminded. And I guess these two lessons are the reason I’ve decided to still write this adventure journal article about the Winchcombe Way, even though it’s now a very long time since the adventure took place.
Right, let’s talk about the Winchcombe Way, because it is well worth talking about.
Winchcombe Way West Loop (April 2021)
The creators of the Winchcombe Way were onto a good thing by curating a figure-of-eight route with a largish place in the middle. It opens up so much potential, taking some of the logistical issues associated with most long-distance trails away. There is a guidebook you can buy, but I hiked without on this occasion, using the OS Maps app (with paper backups) as my guide.
My plan was to hike the western loop one day, go home to eat and sleep, and then return to hike the eastern loop the following day. Armed with a pack full of my favourite hiking snacks (pork pies, malt loaf, crisps, sweets, a snickers…), I was excited to get out into the countryside.
I made use of the large cheap car park on Back Lane close to the centre of Winchcombe (£1 all day), and the public toilets (requiring one 20p coin), and was ready to hike by 8am. It was a cool morning, but I wasn’t worried about being cold; it alternated between sunshine and cloud all day, but there was no chance of rain.
Heading North
The western loop first ascends Langley Hill to the north of Winchcombe, providing immediate gratification in the form of pretty views all around. I admit I dislike going uphill right at the start of a hike, but it often seems to be the way. I guess I need a couple of miles of flat walking for my body to realise I’m asking it to hike for the day, and I was certainly panting more than a little by the time I reached Abbots Leys. Well worth the effort, though.
As if I needed a reminder that the Cotswolds is all about the undulation – rolling hill after rolling hill – as soon as I was at the top of Langley Hill, it was time to drop down again. Next up was Gretton, a gorgeous little village I’ve not been to before. In case you’re interested, Gretton means ‘village on gravelly soil’ – now you know!
From Gretton the route crosses the B4077 next to a large campsite, and follows a stream to Alderton. The stretch around Dumbleton which followed was particularly nice. A new-to-me place to explore, I was provided with some really great views, and the woodland on the west side of the hill was particularly glorious.
Cleeve Common
Back over the B4077 again, and now on the return leg (if a circular route can have such a thing), I made one small detour to avoid a field with cows and their very young calves. Then it was on to Nottingham Hill and to Cleeve Common. The most significant climb of the day, this is the bit of the Winchcombe Way I already knew well, but it was interesting to arrive from a completely different route to normal for a change. The uphill started by taking me past the famous Prescott Hill Climb, steeply through woodland, and then onto a wide track between fields.
The Winchcombe Way goes right over the top of Cleeve Hill, but bypasses both of the trig pillars on this vast highest-point-in-the-Cotswolds common (go here if you want a route that goes to both of them). Instead, the path flows around the back of the hill, providing views over Winchcombe itself, which is a nice touch given the name of this long-distance trail.
The last stretch of this long day walk had me visit Belas Knap, a Neolithic long barrow. Not my first time here, I didn’t spend much time looking around, but it is well worth a pause if you’ve not been before. Finally, the route descends (very steeply at points) back into Winchcombe with views of Sudeley Castle and the surrounding countryside.
First Loop Complete
The western loop of the Winchcombe Way provided 21-miles of utterly wonderful Cotswolds countryside. It wasn’t difficult underfoot, wasn’t too steep up or down (even Nottingham Hill!), was very simple to navigate thanks to the amazing way-marking of the route at every junction, and was a really fabulous hike.
I was out for about eight hours, including a few breaks to drink tea and eat my favourite hiking snacks – so I kept a reasonable pace throughout. While it was a very long walk, it was a completely doable day hike. I probably did wish away the last two miles, but I think that is to be expected when your body and mind know they are on the home stretch.
Things didn’t even feel that bad when I got home; I was tired with aching legs for sure, but didn’t feel any worse than I might expect. I bathed, ate (spaghetti bolognaise, if you’re interested), repacked my bag ready for the following day, and got an early night.
That Two-Year Gap
As you already know, because that’s the premise of this whole article, the intention to get back out the following morning didn’t go to plan. When I got up, I felt a combination of tired, achy, and most overwhelmingly, lethargic. I was nowhere near motivated enough to go for another walk, let alone another 21-miler. After dithering about at home trying to muster the energy to drive to Winchcombe again, I sacked off my big Winchcombe Way hiking plans, and went up onto Cleeve Hill to recce the new archaeology walk instead.
I had every intention of getting that second loop hiked that same summer. It was honestly meant to be a temporary pause on the Winchcombe Way, not a complete fail. The weekends came and went, I got busy with other things, and as if all of a sudden, I’d hiked the Coast to Coast, the clocks had changed, and the days with enough daylight for such a hike were gone. I kept thinking about my unfinished Winchcombe Way hike, but didn’t (couldn’t, wouldn’t) find the time or energy to complete it.
And then I was diagnosed with anaemia, and had a course of iron and B12 forced into my system to sort out what the doctor said were the lowest readings she’d ever seen. That blip in my internal balance became a credible excuse over the winter and well into 2022, and the idea of doing such a big hike was buried in the back of my mind where it couldn’t get out. The Winchcombe Way was forgotten.
Winchcombe Way East Loop (May 2023)
It was while hiking the Cotswold Way with Fiona, almost exactly two years after doing the first half, that I realised it was time to return to the Winchcombe Way. Parts of the Cotswold Way and Winchcombe Way run together – the routes cross more than once – and so our conversation naturally turned to my story of setting out to hike a trail in two days and giving up half-way through. I promised myself I would use the fitness gained hiking the Cotswold Way to finish off the Winchcombe Way, and took a day off work a couple of weeks later to do just that.
To be honest, as I was preparing for my day hike the night before, and still in the morning when I got up, I was just not feeling it. A combination of being tired, not really eating and drinking well for a day or two, and still feeling a bit daunted by a route that had weirdly become so important, meant I was dragging my feet a bit.
Back at the Start
I went anyway, intending to walk the full eastern loop. I parked up in the same car park, paid my £1 to park and 20p to have a wee, and headed out of Winchcombe – up through some beautiful pastureland and a bit of woodland.
It wasn’t long before I was wondering if I should continue, but stubbornness had me plod along. The trail was gorgeous – I’d crossed the Salt Way (an ancient long-distance trail, the most direct route between the salt pits of Cheshire and the river Thames) – and was heading through farmland along and easy-to-walk track with fantastic views across the valley. The weather was bright and warm, and the views wonderful, but my legs were heavy, and I found myself feeling more and more intimidated by the enormous route.
Guiting Wood is a real gem, I normally love walking through it, but not today. Temple Guiting, Ford and Cutsdean are also normally particularly charming. But while I will not complain about the Winchcombe Way itself one bit – it was showing off the area impeccably – I was not having fun. And in the words of Fiona, if it’s not fun, change things to make it fun.
Bench Moment
About seven miles in, grumpy that I wasn’t enjoying this beautiful trail as much as I ought to be, I sat on a well-appointed bench where the trail met a road at Taddington to drink my flask of tea and had a look at the map. I spotted a footpath through woodland I’d walked before that would turn this 21-mile loop into two smaller loops; 15-ish miles for today and 9-ish miles for another day.
I had signal, so looked at the weather forecast again. Heavy rain showers were due around 3pm, when I would still be out. In that moment, the eastern loop of the Winchcombe Way became a two-day mission.
Defeatist in some ways, yes. But a complete stroke of genius in others. It’s no word of a lie that in that moment, when I made that decision, the heaviness in my legs and head as-near-as-vanished, and I thoroughly enjoyed the rest of my day. The views seemed nicer, the trail easier, and the task more fun.
A Shorter Loop
With almost a spring in my step, which was every bit as ridiculous on the day as it sounds now when I share it here, I continued on the Winchcombe Way until I came to a crossroads at Parks Farm. Instead of continuing straight on, I turned left on the bridleway through Oldhill Wood and Jubilee Wood, which took me steeply downhill towards Stanway. I walked along the B4077 (which has a pavement) for a short distance, before picking up the Winchcombe Way south towards Wood Stanway.
The rain arrived much earlier than forecast, as it happens, and included a bit of thunder. By the time I reached Hailes, with its beautiful Abbey remains (English Heritage, paid entry, but you can at least see the ruins from the public footpath), it was absolutely chucking it down. No matter; not only was I nearly done, but I was also on very familiar ground as this stretch down Buck Pit Lane exactly matched the Cotswold Way which I’d walked just two-weeks before.
I was back in Winchcombe having done 15.5 miles by mid-afternoon. I was tired, soaking wet, but feeling like I’d made a good decision. And this time I would definitely be back the following day to finish things off. I was sure of it.
Winchcombe Way Take Three
The final part of my Winchcombe Way hiking adventure, then, was a 9.5-mile hike through a handful of traditional Cotswold villages. I parked at the free car park on Snowshill Road (next to Snowshill Manor), and picked up the Winchcombe Way through the gate by the access lane to this National Trust property. Again, I was on very familiar ground here, as I’ve hiked in this area before, but it was good to return and follow this specific curated route.
The Winchcombe Way goes downhill through Piper’s Grove Farm, crosses a stream, and heads immediately back up to Laverton Hill Farm. That first section is oh-so-pretty (even with the mud). There’s a bit of woodland before the path crosses the Cotswold Way (again!), and it goes down to the small village of Buckland. Here we are again with those rolling hills of the Cotswolds – up and down and up and down!
Feeling Chatty in Stanton
The section through farmland – mostly pastureland – between Laverton and Stanton continued with the picturesque theme. It’s only 125m above sea level or so, but the views across the valley are far reaching.
I stopped for my lunch on one of the benches in Stanton, where I ended up chatting to two horse riders, a man on a bicycle, and a group of four teenagers on their first Duke of Edinburgh expedition who were early for their check-in with their instructor. It’s probably a good job I was feeling much less grumpy for this last leg of my hike, or those conversations would have been a bit short!
From Stanton, the Winchcombe Way and Cotswold Way join forces again, across farmland and meadow – including past some amazing large trees. Sometimes there are cows in these fields, but not on this occasion, and I’ve never had an issue with them here – they have plenty of space and so do you.
The Winchcombe Way then goes through Stanway, around Stanway House (not that you can see it through the huge brick wall), and down a lovely little path by the now fully restored Stanway Watermill, back to the same road I’ve mentioned at least four times in this blog post already.
A Sneaky Trig Pillar
To join up this last loop, I left the Winchcombe Way when I reached the B4077, and walked along the same bridleway up through the woodland I’d come down the previous day. It’s a slog that one, and there was plenty of mud and water rushing down the hill, but the woodland is beautiful. I met back up with the Winchcombe Way where I’d left it at Parks Farm.
I noticed a trig pillar a tiny bit off the route, and seeing that the access track on which it stood was wide and open, I decided I would wander along it to see if I could bag it. Standing at 298-metres above sea level, this is probably the most hidden trig pillar I’ve come across – it was concealed in the hedgerow. It – and I therefore – was not on a public right of way, so I was very quick about my business. I got my photo and returned down to the Winchcombe Way the way I’d come without delay. Shhhhh, don’t tell anyone.
To complete the loop and return to my car, the route picked up a narrow country lane and went through the middle of Snowshill. Famous for its Manor and Garden (National Trust), home to the unconventional and eccentric Charles Wade, Snowshill is an idyllic Cotswold village and a rather nice place to (eventually) complete my round of the Winchcombe Way.
Honestly, I was such a happy hiker on this particular Saturday morning, everything seemed perfect; the weather, the trail, the waymarking, and even that mile-long hill I had to climb to link up the route.
Winchcombe Way: Complete!
This story comes in several parts. First, there is the part where I tried – and failed – to hike the whole Winchcombe Way in two days. Then there was the part where I tried – and failed – to complete the Winchcombe Way that summer. And then there was the part where I tried – and failed – to complete the Winchcombe Way by in two days but two years apart.
But in the end, eventually and finally, I tackled what became something of a demon in my mind, completing the Winchcombe Way in three parts. One 21-mile day, one 15.5-mile day, and one 9.5-mile day. With 25 months between the first and the second half.
Believe it or not, I don’t hate the Winchcombe Way. I left something of myself on that trail, certainly, but I am feeling very happy that I got it done – in the end. It hasn’t put me off big hiking days, either, although I’m a little more realistic on what I should and shouldn’t attempt on back-to-back days since this experience.
The Winchcombe Way is a really beautiful trail, on well-maintained footpaths, and with excellent sign posting. I would highly recommend it – as a whole or in parts – to anyone looking for a way to explore the northern Cotswolds on foot. It has everything: hills with big views, ancient history, beautiful woodland, flowing rivers, rolling meadows, and yellow-stone-built villages.
Just remember, you really don’t have to do big miles to have an amazing time out hiking. And changing your plan to match how you feel is never a bad thing. I mean, I knew both of those things – but it turns out I needed to be reminded.
Got some unfinished hiking business that needs your attention? Maybe it’s time.