An adventure journal post all about day two hiking the Mendip Way – 15 miles from Rowberrow to Wookey Hole. If you are new to this series, start at day zero.
Back at the end of January, I went on a solo adventure hiking along the Mendip Way. Timed right at the start of the year as a way of acting on my desire to do more hiking than I managed in 2024, I couldn’t wait to see what this long-distance trail in Somerset had in store. This adventure journal is part of a short series recounting my time on this particular trail. In this post, I’m chatting about day two, when I hiked from Rowberrow to Wookey Hole.
Despite waking up feeling a bit fragile, I was eager to get out and tackle another day of hiking on the Mendip Way. The weather was absolutely perfect – a bright, sunny day from beginning to end. Starting a little off trail in Rowberrow, I had 15 miles ahead of me to reach the Wookey Hole Hotel by the end of the day.
The Short Version
The scenery was honestly spectacular, possibly the best I saw on the whole route. Cheddar Gorge, on my third visit now, still managed to impress. Hard work, but wonderful. And the sight back across to Crook Peak (read day one) in the early afternoon was just stunning.
As with all journeys, it wasn’t completely smooth sailing. There was an especially frustrating section when the path didn’t match my map through a farm. But a pleasant encounter with a human helped me get over that quickly; a hiker around my age was out with her guide dog and we stood and chatted a while. Then a bit later in the day I made an error by not diverting after Priddy when the mud got so deep, I nearly lost my boots. Deep and wet mud is my favourite… … …
The day finished with a walk through Ebbor Gorge, which was gorgeous, Sadly, I couldn’t linger as the sun was setting, which was a shame because I would have liked to explore more there. This is one of the downsides of multi-day hikes that have distinct start and end dates; decisions have to be made to keep to schedule.
I managed to reach my hotel in Wookey Hole just as dusk hit (only 5pm, but happy UK winter!). I was once again covered in mud, but had a genuinely good day full of unforgettable sights and moments.
Download file for GPSSee the full route in OS Maps.
Read the official Mendip Way leaflet.
Mendip Way Day 2: Rowberrow to Wookey Hole
I might have got off to sleep quickly in my large and luxurious room at The Swan Inn (booked via Booking.com), but it didn’t last long. I woke up in the early hours with terrible stomach ache. What caused it was a mystery, seems unlikely to have been the vegetarian dinner I’d eaten, but you never know. What caused it was irrelevant really, but practically speaking, I did not wake up as refreshed as I might have liked.
Nevertheless, I ventured down for breakfast, knowing that I’d need the energy to get me through the day. Everything was served fresh – no buffet here – so I ordered a fruit smoothie, fried eggs on toast, and two pots of tea. Well, I mean, I ordered one pot of tea and then another pot of tea; I do love tea, but I have never just outright ordered two pots to myself from the off. Maybe I should?!
I smiled to myself at the conversation underway at the next table. A couple were talking about when best to ask their app to defrost their BMW, why people liked riding “bobbing” motorbikes on the Isle of Wight (they meant bobbers…), and what one of them would be packing to hike Kilimanjaro next month. I loved how they were totally engrossed in their conversation, their enthusiasm for the day was even a little infectious, and it set a positive tone for the day ahead.
A Cold and Frosty Morning
I took my time over breakfast. I had a decent distance to walk and limited daylight, but I decided to give my body chance to wake up and recover properly. As a result, I started hiking a little later than usual – it was around 9.20am by the time I got going. My first goal was to reach Cheddar by lunchtime, roughly 6.5 miles from my starting point.
Rowberrow itself if somewhere I would return to. I had a look at the map and there are a couple of nice-looking circular walks I fancy. Which explains why there was a large group of hikers gathering in the carpark by the hotel comparing maps, getting their boots tied up and day packs on. And despite the afore mentioned issue, I’d gladly stay (and eat) at The Swan Inn again.
There was a real chill in the air, with a heavy frost on the ground, which made the first couple of miles to and through Rowberrow Warren nothing short of magical.
Located on the western side of the Mendip Hills, just over two miles north of Cheddar, Rowberrow Warren covers approximately 220 hectares. The woodland was originally planted in the 1940s-50s on previously acid grassland and heath. There was something so calm and peaceful about this section of the Mendip Way, with its shady clearings, streams, and interesting flora and fauna.
The low sun filtering through the trees onto the white ground created a serene and beautiful atmosphere. The path itself was muddy but manageable, and I enjoyed every moment of the gentle meander through the forest. I didn’t even mind when a horse rider came down the path in front of me – it just added to the overall landscape.
Rocks Triggering Good Memories
Longwood Nature Reserve is known for its rich biodiversity and beautiful spring flowers. But of course, being January, I had to make do with the various shades of green and brown of this deep and shady valley bottom.
As I strolled through Longwood, memories flooded back from a previous trip with the now-no-longer Outdoor Bloggers network. Recognising familiar rocks and trails, I felt a sense of nostalgia and a strangely deep connection to the land. I even took a photo of the spot we stopped for our picnic lunch on our day hike, such was the power of the memory that filled my mind.
Next up on my tour along the Mendip Way was Black Rock. A somewhat hidden dry limestone valley – although it was still incredibly muddy for somewhere that’s meant to be dry…! The area is home to several historical lime kilns, including the Black Rock Drove lime kiln, which dates back to the early 20th century. These kilns were used to process limestone into quicklime for building materials and agricultural purposes.
The easy meandering ended as I reached Black Rock Gate, which marks the start of the climb up to the top of Cheddar Gorge. This is my third time hiking this path – the previous two times had been once in either direction – so I knew what I was about to endure in order to reap the rewards of views from England’s famous limestone gorge.
The climb was bordering on brutal. I mean, when there are a set of steps named “Hell’s Steps, it’s not difficult to imagine what it was like. And while the steepness couldn’t be overlooked, which definitely made me pant (just a teeny bit…), it was the mud that made it difficult.
A Gruelling Climb Up Cheddar Gorge
Some of the steps and slopes have been reinforced with stone and gravel thanks the efforts of those running the land here. And for that, I was (am) hugely grateful. However, other parts of the route haven’t (yet) been improved, and so remain incredibly muddy – and given the weather, were somewhat treacherous.
It took a lot of effort to reach the top, and I was once again hugely glad I’d brought my poles – and for my super grippy and sturdy Meindl hiking boots. Both were essential in helping me stay upright, and I felt deeply for those coming the other way who were wearing nice white trainers. Oh dear. If you do the Mendip Way, or if you choose to walk Cheddar Gorge in an anti-clockwise direction when the ground is likely to be squelchy, then you have been warned!!
Despite the arduous climb, the reward was well worth it – it normally is. The view from the top of Cheddar Gorge was just beautiful. I took the tiniest detour along the path that hugs the cliff edge, but didn’t linger long on the top – it was cold, there were lots of people, and I wanted to make sure I had time for a cake break in Cheddar itself.
It was a return visit to Edelweiss Café for me, where I had a break for tea and carrot cake. If I’m honest I had hoped for a Cheddar cheese scone, which seemed like an appropriate thing to fancy in England’s home of cheese. Sadly, they didn’t have any left, which was surprising at bang on midday on a Saturday, but never mind.
Big Views and Deep Mud
After my lovely break surrounded by other people enjoying the outdoors on this blue-sky day, it was time to head back out into the countryside and tackle the second half of my day hiking. A bit like hiking the Cotswold Way, which involves going up and down the Cotswold Edge as the path winds its way towards Bath, part of the fun of the Mendip Way is going up and down. And so having descended off Cheddar Gorge, it was time to get back up onto the escarpment again.
I was soon out of the bustle of Cheddar, and made my way up towards Mascall’s Wood, another designated Nature Reserve along this varied route. The ascent was a lot less steep than Hell’s Steps, but it did stretch for what felt like miles.
Once I was up close to Carscliff Farm, I had stunning views back over Cheddar Reservoir and towards Crook Peak – the reverse of the views I had on the previous day. And in the other direction, I watched as gliders winched up into the sky to make the most of the thermals. Fun fact – Carscliff is apparently the source of bottled spring water from Cheddar. Now you know.
Frustrating Navigation
My enjoyment was thwarted somewhat as I neared Draycott Sleights Nature Reserve, when the navigation became tricky and frustrating. I just couldn’t make the path I could see on the ground match with the map in my hand. I encountered locked gates, broken and overgrown stiles, and no signage whatsoever. This was not in keeping with the rest of the Mendip Way, which I was finding to be well maintained and waymarked. I guess not all landowners are created equal!
The annoyance slowed me down considerably. It felt like I was navigating through a weird maze, and the doubt it planted in my mind about my map reading skills caused my emotions to run high. Is it even an adventure if you don’t shed at least one tear along the way? You’ll be pleased to know I didn’t get to the point of shouting at sheep this time, though (read about my Red Pike experience for more on that story…).
Draycott Sleights Nature Reserve wasn’t much better. Although here it was much less about the navigation issues, and much more about the mud. Actually, I think it was pure slurry, which is way worse. Yup, all the yuk!!! Boots covered in the worst kind of mud notwithstanding, it was a very pretty place. Managed by the Somerset Wildlife Trust, this small nature reserve is known for its wildlife, rocky outcrop, and spectacular panoramic views. And those views were, indeed, spectacular.
A Chance Encounter
As I left the nature reserve, I had a chance encounter with a lady who was out walking with her guide dog. She was maybe a little older than me, and we stopped and chatted for a short while. Her immediate question was “Are you doing the whole Mendip Way”, and when I responded positively, she complemented me, commenting at how few solo female hikers she sees out for multi-day adventures.
She explained that due to her deteriorating sight, when she’s alone she is limited to hikes she knows well, routes that she and her guide dog can navigate between them. But that doesn’t put her off – she still tries to get out as often as possible, even if it means hiking the same loops repeatedly.
As I walked away, I knew there had been some kind of divine intervention in that moment. The lady I met had absolutely no idea about the connection I would feel to her story; she had no idea of my own eye health issues, and so couldn’t have known how deeply she spoke to me. With the last hour or so being so very frustrating, I was feeling somewhat triggered. But that chance encounter caused all that annoyance and emotion to dissipate.
I knew that from that point on, the rest of the hike, whatever it might throw at me, would be just fine.
Even Deeper Mud
And as if the Mendip Way itself was listening, the path straightened out, leading me across open farmland with big countryside views all around. The terrain was reasonably flat, making for easy walking. Yes, there were still patches of mud, but nothing like I’d already experienced – and certainly nothing like what was to come later!
The Mendip Way guide leaflet I was following suggests that Priddy is a good place to stop for the night, but when researching my hike I found no available accommodation. I therefore had to continue on through the village to Wookey Hole, a few easy-looking miles further down the trail.
As I walked through Priddy, something felt very weird. Everything seemed shut – I did think I might stop for dinner, but the pub was very closed and has clearly been so for a long time. And then there were the cars. There were cars parked everywhere – on the verges, on the (I assume) village green, in the closed pub car park. A local lady even stopped me to ask if I knew what was going on. Hundreds of cars – but no people. Really weird.
The village of Priddy is probably most known for the Priddy Circles; a group of four circular earth banks in a line, each approximately 200 metres in diameter and built around 2,500BC – the same time as Stonehenge. Sadly, even if these had been close enough to the Mendip Way to be a doable detour, they are on private land and so are not open to the public.
The Final Stretch
With a little under three miles left to hike and a little over an hour of daylight to play with, I left Priddy with a determined pace. I made a mistake here, though. There was a one-mile section of trail that was the worst mud I have ever seen. The path around a couple of fields was fenced on both sides, and was so very thick with deep and slippery mud – well over my boots a lot of the time. What I should have done was turn back after the first stretch, to take an obvious diversion around the worst of it. But hindsight is a wonderful thing and for some reason I didn’t even look at the map to see if there was a way around it. I just kept on trucking. I’m stupid sometimes!
The final feature on day two of hiking the Mendip Way took me through Ebbor Gorge National Nature Reserve. By this point it really did feel like I’d been hiking all day, but the beauty of the woodland-covered reserve lifted my spirits.
Consisting of Ebbor Gorge and Ebbor Wood, Ebbor Gorge National Nature Reserve is a limestone gorge, designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest thanks to its dramatic limestone cliffs, caves, and ancient woodlands. As with the caves at Cheddar and those at Wookey Hole, the caves at Ebbor Gorge would have been home to prehistoric humans – the Mendip Hills are teeming with ancient history going back over 45,000 years. It’s so interesting.
The steep descent through the woodland was absolutely gorgeous. Given how much I was pushing my luck about getting to my hotel before sunset, I missed out the short detour to the viewpoint, but I still very much enjoyed this stretch of the hike.
The Wookey Hole Hotel
Wookey Hole is renowned for the famous Wookey Hole Caves, which attract visitors from all over the world. I knew I wouldn’t be able to visit the cave itself, I was merely a traveller passing through. But the tourist hotspot did mean I had a cheap and cheerful place to stay for the night.
I don’t know if I quite made it to my hotel before the sun officially dipped behind the horizon or not – but if I didn’t it was only by a minute or so. Result! I arrived at the Wookey Hole Hotel at almost bang on 5pm, very much ready to finish for the day. Before stepping inside, I commandeered the use of an outside tap I found to hose off my boots to remove the worst of the mud. I’m sure the tap was there to help dog owners give their pups a drink, but I’m sure the hotel management would have been happy for me to make use of it to save their entrance way!
The hotel provided basic but welcoming accommodation, very much like a Travelodge under private ownership. No complaints here, it had everything I needed – and more. I mean, there was even a bath! Clearly, I made use of that; the act of having a cup of tea and a soak in hot water (same temperature on the inside and the outside… Sarah Millican got it spot on), was another big win of the day.
Celebratory Cheese!
The hotel restaurant was as basic as the hotel. But I admit, I was pleasantly surprised with my meal. Based on the place, menu and prices, I was expecting reheated frozen food, you know, the kind that is bought in from places like Pilgrim’s Frozen Food. I ordered a burger and chips, which turned out to be more satisfying than I’d imagined. Maybe it was the hiker hunger, or maybe it was actually fresh, I couldn’t tell – and didn’t mind. The best bit? It was generously topped with proper Cheddar cheese, which felt like an appropriate end this particular hiking day.
Reflections on Mendip Way Day 2
Reflecting on my second day hiking the Mendip Way, I think it’s fair to say it was a journey of perseverance and connection. Despite deep (and smelly) mud and frustrating navigation issues, the beauty of the Mendip Hills and a memorable conversation with a visually impaired hiker and her guide dog left me feeling deeply fulfilled.
Thankfully, the cramps that interrupted my much-needed rest the previous night were all but forgotten as I walked into the magic of a frost-covered Rowberrow Warren right at the start of the day. In some ways, that serene and peaceful scene that felt almost otherworldly, felt like it was days ago. While only 15 miles further down the trail, I’d travelled through land after land (Lord of the Rings style). The Mendip Way really does pack a punch when it comes to variety of terrain and scenery, and I was loving my decision to take it on.
Oh, and I mustn’t forget the that wonderful sense of nostalgia I felt as I passed through Longwood Nature Reserve and into Black Rock, recalling past adventures and feeling a (weirdly profound) connection to the rock formations there.
As I sank into a warm bath at my hotel, I let the aches and muck of the day melt away, and the warm feelings take over. Exhausted yet exhilarated, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of accomplishment. Day two had tested my limits in some ways, but the incredible scenery and important chance encounter made it all worthwhile.
Day three on the Mendip Way coming soon…
I couldn’t help but go to bed feeling anxious for the following day, though. The weather would be taking a real turn, with warnings of rain and wind sweeping across my intended route during the morning. I’d studied the map and notes and had made various decisions based on the route and the weather, with alternative options noted down just in case. But more on those in my next Mendip Way instalment.
If anything in this journal article has planted a question in your mind about hiking the Mendip Way (or hiking in general), please feel free to ask it in the comments below.
See the full route in OS Maps | Read the official Mendip Way leaflet.
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