Oslo stole my heart – here’s how I spent a couple of days getting to know Norway’s capital city.
After a week in the mountains, skiing across frozen lakes, snowshoeing through deep powder, watching the sky turn green night after night, arriving in Oslo felt like stepping into a different kind of magic. Venabu had given me the winter adventure I’d hoped for, the reset I needed, and a whole constellation of core memories to carry home. But I wasn’t quite ready to leave Norway yet. I wanted a little more time, a little more exploring, a little more space to let the week settle. So, I booked myself a short city break in Oslo: two full days, and no expectations beyond curiosity.
This post is part four of my Norwegian Christmas Adventure series, but it also stands alone for anyone wondering whether Oslo makes a good city break (spoiler: it absolutely does). I packed a lot into 48 hours: the Christmas market, fjord views from by, on and in the water, a sculpture park, a floating sauna, and several cardamom buns. It’s a city that’s beautiful, walkable, and full of surprises, and I fell for it almost immediately.
After a week of structured days in Venabu, arriving in Oslo felt like opening a blank page. No schedule, no group timetable, just me, a new city, and 48 hours to explore. Okay, so I had booked one thing by the time I actually arrived in the city, and I had a short list of things I definitely wanted to do, but you know what I mean. I dropped my bags, wrapped up warm, and headed straight back out into the winter evening to see what Oslo had to offer.
A Perfect Base for a Winter City Break
Arriving in Oslo after a week in the mountains felt like stepping into a different world. It was still crisp and wintry, but brighter, busier, and full of possibility. The journey from Venabu by train was smooth, and when I checked into the Thon Hotel Panorama, I knew I’d chosen well. It’s tucked just a few minutes’ walk from the waterfront, quiet enough to feel restful but close enough to wander everywhere on foot. Exactly what I wanted.
There are a number of Thon Hotels around Oslo and I’m sure they are all as good as each other. As for this one, I was welcomed well, and felt at home straight away. In my video I said it cost me a little under £80 a night, but I checked when writing this article and it was actually even less than that – much nearer £60 per night including breakfast, which I say is excellent value. My room was modern, warm, and incredibly spacious, with huge windows that let in the soft winter light. And using my phone as my room key will never not be a novelty!
The breakfast was a real highlight. I’d heard Norwegians take breakfast seriously, and had experienced some of that in Venabu. But I wasn’t prepared for the sheer joy of discovering that rice pudding is a breakfast food in Norway. Creamy, comforting, sweet, and served with cinnamon and jams – you know I went back for seconds. And maybe thirds.
A City Made for Mooching
Naturally, my first evening in Oslo was spent wandering. Oslo is incredibly walkable, and even in the dark it felt easy to explore, with wide pavements, clear signage, and plenty of people around.
The Christmas market in the city centre was still in full swing, glowing with fairy lights and the smell of cinnamon. Stalls selling woollen mittens, hot drinks, wooden toys, and pastries lined the square, and the whole place felt warm and festive despite the cold.
After a solo wander, I met up with a couple of new friends from the Gutsy Girls trip, and after an obligatory hot beverage at the market, we wandered together around some of Oslo’s biggest cultural sites. First, up to the Royal Palace, where the view over the city at night was beautiful – twinkling lights, and that calm Scandinavian atmosphere that feels safe and spacious. From there we hit up the City Hall where Nobel Peace Prizes are awarded, the famous ‘Untuned Bell’, and the Oslo Opera House.
There’s something special about arriving in a new city at night. You see the outlines first; the shapes, the lights, the mood, and the details come later. That first wander set the tone for the whole trip: gentle, curious, unhurried. A chance to let the city introduce itself on its own terms.
Oslo from in and on the Water
After an excellent sleep in my room at the Thon Hotel Panorama, it was time to make the most of Monday and get out and experience Oslo.
The city has a thriving floating sauna culture, and joining a session with three other Gutsy Girls was one of the most invigorating things I’ve ever done I’ve already written a full post about it, but it deserves a mention here because it’s such a big part of Oslo’s identity. We spent 90 minutes rotating between hot saunas and icy fjord dips – so icy I had to break the surface with my body. It was wild, exhilarating, and potentially the moment I became a full convert to the sauna‑and‑plunge life. If you’re visiting Oslo, book a session. You won’t regret it.
After seeing Oslo from in the fjord, it seemed only right to see it from on the water, too. One of the best things I did in Oslo was take a fjord boat trip. The boat gives you a completely different perspective; the contrasting modern architecture and old buildings, the islands scattered across the fjord, the way the city seems to rise gently from the shoreline. We passed tiny cabins, quiet inlets, and stretches of forest dusted with snow.
The boat trip was only a couple of hours, and I know it was a particularly touristy thing to do, but it was well worth the time and money. If you’re planning a city break in Oslo, put this near the top of your list as a good way to see and learn about the city.
Cardamom Buns
Oslo’s café culture is everything I hoped it would be: warm, cosy, unpretentious, and full of cardamom buns that could convert even the most dedicated cinnamon‑roll loyalist. I spent a good chunk of my 48 hours hopping between cafés, warming up with coffee and pastries, journalling, people‑watching, and letting the city settle around me.
There’s a Scandinavian softness to Oslo’s cafés; wooden tables, soft lighting, big windows, with a pace that encourages lingering rather than rushing. It was the perfect contrast to the cold outside and the perfect way to ease myself back into solo travel after a week of group adventure.
And the cardamom buns? I’m still thinking about them. I often do. Soft, fragrant, lightly sweet, and absolutely perfect with a hot drink. You can get them on every street. If Oslo had nothing else to offer (it has plenty), I’d still go back for the buns alone.
A Local Guide in VoiceMap
You know I love my VoiceMap tours, and on Monday afternoon I headed out to do the ‘Downtown Oslo: Exploring the City’s Highlights and History’ by local guide Stormposten Lars Engerengen. His opening was: “We’re used to thinking the world is out there, but on this walking tour, you’ll find the world is contained within Oslo”. And he was right. Oslo is compact, but it’s full of layers – history, architecture, culture, and stories that sit quietly until someone points them out.
The tour connected it all; the city’s past, its modern identity, its relationship with the fjord, and its commitment to art and public space. It made Oslo feel coherent, thoughtful, and full of character. Some of the highlights were:
- The Royal Palace, sitting at the top of Karl Johans gate, with sweeping views down the main boulevard.
- The National Theatre and Parliament, two beautiful buildings that anchor the city’s political and cultural life.
- The Nobel Peace Centre, a striking blend of history and modern design, sitting right on the waterfront.
- Oslo City Hall, where the Nobel Peace Prize ceremony takes place each year.
- The Opera House, one of Oslo’s architectural icons, with its sloping roof you can walk up (when it’s not icy) for panoramic fjord views.
- And the harbourfront, where modern architecture meets the water in a way that feels both bold and deeply Scandinavian.
If you’re visiting Oslo (or any city, for that matter), a VoiceMap tour is a brilliant way to get your bearings and learn something about where you are. Not sponsored, but a real recommendation.
There’s also a local free walking tour which is a good option if you prefer a group. Don’t’ forget the free walking tours aren’t free – there’s a mandatory tip at the end.
Not-Quite Aimless Wandering
I think you’ll agree Monday was pretty packed – I did say I was keen to experience as much of Oslo as possible during my short visit. And that energy carried into the following day, although this time I leaned far more into mooching than scheduled activities. And honestly, Oslo really is a brilliant city for a good old mooch.
The centre is compact, clean, and full of interesting shops, especially if you love outdoor gear or fancy homewares. I absolutely did not need any of it, but it was fun to browse. And while I naturally made sure I had more of those cardamom buns I love so much, there were coffee shops, cafés, and bakeries everywhere, perfect fuel for aimless wandering.
But it’s not just the shopping. Oslo is simply a lovely city to walk around. Wide pavements, pedestrian‑friendly streets, plenty of green spaces, and a calmness that makes even the busiest areas feel manageable. It’s the kind of place where you can drift without feeling lost.
I didn’t stay in the centre, either. I actually started my Tuesday morning with a winding meander through residential streets, watching the city wake up, before heading out to Bislett Stadium. It was on my to‑see list because my friend’s dad once broke the world record for the 5,000m there; a niche little pilgrimage, perhaps, but a meaningful one. Standing in front of the stadium, imagining that moment of speed and history, felt like a quiet nod to someone else’s story woven into my own day of wandering.
Book‑Lover Heaven
One of the most delightful surprises was the Deichman Bjørvika public library, right by the Opera House. I wandered in because I’d heard there was a view to be had, and ended up staying far longer than planned. It’s a stunning building – all glass, angles, and light – with reading nooks tucked into corners, sweeping staircases, artwork hanging, and views over the fjord. It feels like a love letter to public space: welcoming, beautifully designed, and full of people using it exactly as intended.
And because I’m me, I couldn’t resist looking up a few fun facts. Deichman Bjørvika is Oslo’s main library and one of the most modern in Europe, with over 450,000 books and a design focused on sustainability and openness. It has a full cinema, a recording studio, sewing machines you can borrow, and even a dedicated ‘silent room’ called Future Library, where readers are encouraged to ‘see the forest for the trees’. The whole building is designed so natural light reaches almost every corner, and the top floor reading room is intentionally shaped to frame the fjord like a piece of art.
If you’re a reader, a writer, or someone who simply appreciates a well‑designed building, it’s worth a visit. Even ten minutes inside will make you want to stay for an hour.
Ekebergparken Sculpture Park
The highlight of my Tuesday meandering, though, was Ekebergparken. It was honestly one of the most unexpectedly magical parts of my 48 hours in Oslo. Perched high above the city, it’s a sculpture park woven through forest paths, viewpoints, and quiet clearings; part art gallery, part woodland wander, part panoramic lookout. Getting there is easy (a 30-40 minute walk from the centre or a short tram ride), but the moment you step into the trees, the city feels far away.
The sculptures themselves range from beautiful to bizarre. Some blend into the landscape; others stop you in your tracks. And then there’s the grotto installation – a dim, cave‑like space filled with strange, unsettling figures and flickering lights. It was… an experience. I guess it’s meant to be art that makes you tilt your head and mutter ‘huh?’ under your breath. Memorable, for sure.
But the real showstopper – the one I’m still thinking about – was the Nordic Pixel Forest. It’s the best light installation I’ve ever seen. Hundreds of glowing orbs suspended among the trees, shifting colour and brightness in patterns that felt both digital and deeply organic. I arrived at twilight, just as the sky was turning indigo and the city lights were flickering on below, and the whole scene felt otherworldly. Walking through it was like stepping inside a constellation.
If you have even a few hours in Oslo, go to Ekebergparken. It’s peaceful, surprising, and full of atmosphere, the perfect blend of nature, art, and some incredible city views.
Already Looking Forward
Given I was only there for 48‑hours, or there abouts, I reckon I managed to see a fair amount of the city: a boat trip, sculpture park, Christmas market, floating sauna, café hopping, wandering, learning, and simply letting the city unfold around me. And Oslo rewarded my curiosity – it is compact enough to explore on foot, rich enough that every corner reveals something new. I fell for it far more quickly than I expected. Within a few hours, I knew I’d be back.
Oslo was the perfect ending to a trip that had already packed a punch in terms of memory creation. Venabu gave me movement, joy, community, and a Christmas I chose on purpose. Oslo gave me space to absorb it all – to wander at my own pace, to sit with a cardamom bun and let the week settle, to feel the contrast between wild mountains and modern city, and to realise just how transformative the whole experience had been.
I came home with a constellation of core memories: green skies, frozen lakes, belly laughs, cold plunges, warm saunas, new friends, and a city that surprised me in all the best ways. Even now, months later, I feel a spark of joy every time I think about it.
If you want to see the whole journey, from the mountains to the fjord, a series of short daily videos are on my YouTube channel. And as for Oslo? I’m certain I’ll be back. Hopefully soon.
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