AIRA FORCE AND GOWBARROW FELL | Hiking in Cumbria

This article about hiking Aira Force and Gowbarrow Fell in Cumbria includes my regular collaboration with adidas.

This short hike report comes to you with a background of that familiar Lake District tension: weather closing in, weather easing off, weather doing whatever it pleases…

With that in mind, a friend and I took our chances in an apparent small weather window. We headed for Aira Force and the sweep of Gowbarrow Fell, a loop that promised far more than it asked for. Waterfalls, woodland, open fell – all the moody layers of Ullswater. The falls were in full voice for our visit, roaring through the gorge with that spectacular, understated drama Cumbria does so well.

There was enough elevation to get the blood moving, enough wildness to feel like we’d stepped briefly beyond the everyday, and enough beauty to make me think I’d happily do this one again.

Aira Force and Gowbarrow Fell

We chose to walk in this area because it lent itself to the small, precious weather window that presented itself. I mean, we knew it was going to be windy and a bit wet, but we didn’t want to stay indoors, and this loop would give us options. And let’s face it, waterfalls are much more spectacular when the weather is pants then when it’s been sunny for a week…

We planned five miles, give or take, without too much elevation gain overall. It was enough to feel like we’d been somewhere, but not so much that the weather became the main character.

We parked at the National Trust car park for Aira Force, which has everything you need: toilets, an information kiosk, a tea room, and a map board that provided a sense of direction. From there, you can simply wander to and around the falls, there are paths everywhere, looping you to the top and bottom of the gorge. Follow your nose and you’ll be fine. But you know me – and my hiking buddy Fiona: we like to feel as though we’ve nudged the edge of wilderness, even if only for a couple of hours.

So, with my grippy outdoor shoes laced up (maybe don’t ask Fiona about her ‘choice’ of footwear for this one…), my waterproof coat very much done up, and a flask of tea in the pocket of my pack, we started by heading into the trees.

Aira Force

Aira Force has been drawing visitors for more than 300 years. Its course (and therefore drama) has been shaped by the steep-sided ravine carved by Aira Beck, a stream that rises high on the slopes of Stybarrow Dodd before turning south toward Ullswater. Just before it reaches the lake, the beck drops around 22 metres in a single, thundering plunge – this is the waterfall known as Aira Force.

The name carries Old Norse roots: eyrr (gravel bank) and á (river), referencing the gravelly spit where the beck meets Ullswater, and fors, meaning waterfall. Yes, this region has a Viking past. Don’t you just love this stuff?!

More recently, back in the 18th century, the surrounding woodland was shaped into a pleasure ground by the Dukes of Norfolk, who landscaped glades, planted conifers, and created viewpoints to frame the falls. And today the National Trust cares for the site, preserving its mix of wild gorge and curated woodland.

Two stone bridges, built in honour of members of the Spring family, span the ravine, offering those classic top‑and‑bottom views of the cascade. And you know we stopped here for photos! We made sure we admired the falls from every angle, and loved how they were in full, roaring force for our visit.

Onwards and Upwards

Once we’d had our fill of the incredible Aira Force, Fiona guided us onwards – and upwards. The climb onto Gowbarrow Fell begins gently before zigzagging upwards, a few short, steep pulls but nothing dramatic.

We passed a group of teenagers on a guided hike as we made our way up the steepest part, sprawled on the grass mid‑break, all chatter and snacks and oversized waterproofs. I don’t mind admitting I did my best to make sure they didn’t realise quite how much I was panting… I don’t think I’ll ever be fit enough where I can bound up any hill without having to breathe heavily! Oh well.

Once we’d finished the zig zags, it was just us, the wind, and the sheep. And some slippery rocks which made me grateful for those Terrex Skychasers that have been my go-to outdoor shoes since I got them in early 2025 – and not just because they are mint green. I love how comfortable, grippy – and waterproof – they are, and they continue to be an excellent choice for this kind of hiking (read more about that here).

The trig pillar atop Gowbarrow Gell sits at 481m. And reaching the summit also meant another Wainwright ticked off the list I’ve never officially started, so who knows how many I’ve done. Not a huge number, but each one has been earned.

Gowbarrow Fell

Geologically speaking, Gowbarrow is typical of the area’s ancient volcanic bedrock, its knobbly tops and boggier patches (thankfully none on this hike) shaped by glacial retreat. From the summit ridge, the views sweep across Ullswater in long, layered bands, a landscape that feels both rugged and generous, especially on a rain-washed day.

It was wildly windy up there, which was more than a little suitable, seeing as Gowbarrow Fell means ‘windy hill’ in the Old Norse version of its name. The hill rises above Ullswater as a low but characterful outlier of the eastern fells. Its wedge-shaped form is defined by ridges running toward Airy Crag, Green Hill, and Yew Crag, with the western flank dropping steeply to Aira Beck. The beck itself cuts a dramatic line along the fell’s edge, tumbling over a series of waterfalls including High Force and the afore mentioned Aira Force before reaching the lake.

For centuries, Gowbarrow formed part of Gowbarrow Park, a medieval hunting estate belonging to the lords of Greystoke. In the 18th century, the Dukes of Norfolk transformed the lower slopes into a landscaped parkland designed for scenic wandering – one of the early expressions of Lake District tourism. The National Trust purchased the fell and 750 acres of the park in 1906, securing its future as a place for open access and exploration, including for Fiona and I on this particular hike…  

Gently Down to the Finish

A flask‑of‑tea sat by the trig pillar on Gowbarrow would have been perfect, but the wind had other plans. So, we dropped quickly down the back of the summit mound, where the path softened and the fell offered a little shelter. From there the loop settled into a well‑defined footpath, simple to follow, allowing us to walk and talk without thinking too hard about navigation (though we had the tools with us, of course). We wandered along, chatting, watching the moody light shift over Ullswater and the fells beyond.

Eventually the path curved us back toward the car park, where the promise of dry socks and a warm drink waited. Five‑ish miles, plus a fair bit of wandering around the falls, done in just over two hours; a decent pace for a damp morning that asked a little of us but gave a lot back.

It really was a great little hike. Actually, not so little, but not too strenuous either. A perfect loop for a well‑worth‑it morning in the fells. Would it have been nicer in better weather? Probably. But it didn’t matter. The route was generous, varied, and surprisingly wild for something so compact.

Aira Force may be a long‑established tourist hotspot, and with good reason, but this corner of the Lakes still has plenty of space to breathe, explore, and feel a little bit away from it all.

Follow the Route

If you are looking for a short but high-value route in the Lake District for yourself, then I recommend this one. Or a version of it that suits your hiking style. I plotted ours on OS Maps for you to take a look at. You can also take a look at a handy guide from the National Trust showing all the paths in this area.

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