This journal featuring a short hike over Rannerdale Knotts to enjoy the famous bluebells, features my regular collaboration with adidas.
My solo hike up and over Rannerdale Knotts was something of an accidental early morning excursion. Okay, let me rephrase that. Being in Cumbria was planned. Seeing the bluebells at Rannerdale at near-sunrise was also planned. But the solo bit was unexpected.
I’d driven to Cumbria to spend a few days with friends, and this short ridge‑and‑valley loop was meant to be a shared leg‑stretch for a cup of tea with a view. But life, as it tends to, had other ideas. My friend had to peel off for medical attention following a meeting of scalding porridge to foot. Insisting I went anyway, I found myself standing at one of the car parks along Crummock Water at 7.40am, outdoor shoes on, and despite the popularity of the place, what felt like the valley to myself.
It was mid‑May, the beginning of what would become the first warm spell of the year, and the morning light had that soft, golden quality that makes everything feel possible. The air was cool enough to wake me up but warm enough to promise comfort, and the sky was already beginning to brighten into the kind of blue that makes the Lake District look like a postcard. Rain was forecast later in the day, but for now at least, I was out and making the most of the calm.
The Valley Wakes Up
Advised by my friend, who’s a local in these parts, I chose to take the long and winding route up the hill, and leave the steep side for the way back. With that, the path begins gently, skirting the lower slopes of Rannerdale and curving toward the famous bluebell valley. Even from a distance, the colour was unmistakable: that impossible shade of purple that looks edited even when you’re standing in the middle of it. Rannerdale’s bluebells are legendary, and not just because of their beauty. They bloom across open fellside rather than woodland, rolling in thick, vivid waves that seem to defy the rules of where bluebells are ‘meant’ to grow.
Even early in the morning, the scent was noticeable; earthy, sweet, and threaded with the coolness of the valley air. Birds were already busy, flitting between the bracken and the low shrubs, and the whole place felt suspended in that brief window before the day properly begins. I walked slowly, partly because I hadn’t quite woken up, partly because I wanted to savour it, and partly because the valley felt like a place that deserved a gentler pace.
This route up Rannerdale Knotts is not particularly steep or difficult. Well, other than maybe a bit of a scrambly section towards the summit. Rather, this is a high‑value gentle-enough climb that gives you views long before you’ve earned them. The valley itself is worth the walk even if you’re not going any higher – it’s quiet and beautiful and, at least on this morning, full of wildlife.
The Climb to the Ridge
You can see the meeting point between the path up the valley and the path over Rannerdale Knotts for a little while before you reach it – an almost u-turn in the route to head up the main feature of this hike. From that point, the path rises steadily, pulling you up onto the ridge that runs toward the summit. It’s steep enough to make your legs work, but never punishing.
The wind picked up as I gained height, not enough to knock me sideways but enough to remind me I was climbing a proper ridge. On my right was the path I’d walked up already, and on my left, Buttermere and Crummock Water began to open out, their surfaces catching the morning light. Ahead, the ridge narrowed into a playful little scramble, nothing dramatic, just a hands‑on moment that adds some fun and texture to the walk.
I’d chosen to wear the black adidas Terrex Skychaser Tech Gore‑Tex shoes I’ve been wearing this year. I’ve already written about them in my Currently Loving back in May, but they’re worth a mention as this was their final shake-out before I would be relying on them for 100+ miles on the Cleveland Way. Rannerdale provided mixed terrain, steep sections, loose stone, and that classic Lake District blend of grass, grit, and rock. The Continental rubber outsole gripped beautifully on the ridge, and the lower profile made the scramble feel nimble rather than clumsy. I’m still adjusting to doing more hikes in shoes rather than boots, but on this particular morning, they felt exactly right.
Summit Tea and Fighter Jets
It was a bit too windy to take a break right on the summit, so I descended slightly and found a sheltered spot to unroll my Pacmat Patch (the best sit‑mat I’ve ever owned, and one you know I take everywhere). It was here I checked in with my friend, drank my tea, ate a snack, and enjoyed what turned out to be one of the loveliest summit pauses I’ve had in months. No rush, no fuss, just quality time spent outside in a superbly beautiful place.
Red Pike sat to my left, unmistakable and iconic. That mountain and I have history, a difficult climb during the Coast to Coast, followed by a somewhat triumphant rematch in ice and snow. Seeing it from Rannerdale’s ridge felt like greeting an old friend from a new angle.
Behind me, Buttermere; beside me, Crummock Water; ahead, the valley opened toward the sea. And all around the peaks of Cumbria soared into the sky. Then, as if the morning needed any more drama, the fighter jets arrived – low passes over Buttermere, slicing through the valley with that deep, thrilling roar that always makes my heart flutter a little. And without wanting to turn this hiking journal into a commentary on grief, it felt like a bold wave from the heavens. I mean, if you are sat on the top of a hill surrounded by all that, it’s hard not to think the landscape was putting on a show just for you.
The Descent
Doing the loop in this direction might make the uphill part reasonably gentle on the legs and lungs, but it does make descent from Rannerdale Knotts the kind of quad‑testing nonsense you expect from the Lake District. The route off the hill is steep, direct, and guaranteed to make you laugh at least once as you negotiate the gradient. My shoes and knees handled it well, though I took my time, partly because I didn’t want to slip, partly because the views were too good to rush.
As I dropped back into valley and back around the base of this iconic hill, the bluebells came into view again, now brighter in the full morning sun. The car park, which had been almost empty when I arrived, was now overflowing. People were streaming toward the valley, cameras out, ready to capture the colour. If you want solitude here, early is essential, but even with the crowds, the place holds its magic.
The Legend of Rannerdale
Rannerdale’s bluebells come with a story, one of ambush, bloodshed, and a valley painted purple by the aftermath of battle. Local folklore insists that the flowers sprang from the blood of slain Norman warriors, defeated by native Cumbrians and Norsemen in the so‑called Battle of Rannerdale. Some versions name a leader, Buthar or Boethar, who supposedly orchestrated the ambush from the surrounding slopes. The Normans, led by Ranulf Meschin, Earl of Carlisle, were said to have been drawn into the valley and routed by a surprise attack from above.
It’s a brilliant story, one that could rival Orpheus for an Oscar this season. But almost certainly, it’s a romanticised one. There’s no historical evidence for such a battle, and the bluebells themselves are far more likely the legacy of ancient woodland than ancient warfare.
Still, I love the legend. Landscapes feel richer when they carry stories, even unproven ones. And standing in that valley, surrounded by colour and quiet, it’s easy to see why people wanted to explain the bluebells with something more dramatic than soil and sunlight.
Returning to Company
Rannerdale Knotts is a small hill with a big personality. It offers everything: ridge, scramble, summit, valley, folklore, and flowers. And on a warm morning, with tea in your flask and fighter jets overhead, it feels like the Lake District distilled into its purest form.
By the time I reached the car, the day had fully arrived. As had the crowds. The valley was busy, the air warm, and the bluebells glowing.
My unintended solo adventure turned into a real highlight, a walk that packed an entire weekend’s worth of scenery into a couple of hours. Even if I would have preferred to walk with Fiona.
Follow the Route
If you are looking for a short but high-value route in the Lake District for yourself, then I recommend this one. If you go, go early. Especially in bluebell season. And have a back-up plan for if the car parks are full. You can find the route I used on OS Maps. You can also find out more about Rannerdale Knotts and the surrounding area on the National Trust website.
I am a member of the adidas blogger community. As part of this, I receive vouchers to spend on adidas gear of my choosing. Including the featured shoes. Thanks adidas!
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